Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels
October 2014 - March 2015
Cheese fondue, fasnacht
and Christmas markets
What Lucerne loves
Cosy bars, great restaurants
and day trips to the snow
Arrival & Getting Around
Get your bearings
Facts, habits, attitudes
Once upon a time
Lucerne’s crazy carnival
Don’t be scared! It’s only fasnacht! Read all about it on p.11.
Music, masks and partying at fasnacht
Culture & Events
Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus
Concerts, shows and exhibitions
Lucerne in a nutshell
Churches, museums and city tours
Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more
Bars, pubs and clubs
Chocolate, coﬀee and conversation
Lucerne for kids
Major fun for minor citizens
Local delicacies and Swiss design
Watches & Jewellery
Where to ﬁnd the one you’re loooking for
Fondue cruise, ice skating and day trips to the snow
From cream of the crop to down to earth
Maps & Index
Public transport map
MARC O’POLO STORE
With a bit of snow, Lucerne’s landmarks look even prettier. For
winter activities in the city, see p. 40. Emanuel Ammon/Luzern Tourismus
Weinmarkt 6 Luzern
October 2014 - March 2015
Arriving & Getting Around
Autumn and winter have a lot to oﬀer in Lucerne. Ok,
swimming in the lake is oﬀ the cards (for most of us), but
there are plenty of other things to do. Take one of the lake
cruises – they’re just as spectacular as in summer –, go
skating near the KKL or plunge into real winter on one of
the nearby mountains (p. 41)!
pocket publishing GmbH
Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich
tel. +41 32 510 85 76
Published 3 times per year, 90 000 copies
© pocket publishing GmbH 2014
Temperatures from December to March are often under
5°C, but on a sunny day even having a drink outside can
be very pleasant. When you feel like warming up indoors,
a meal of cheese fondue is sure to make you glow inside
(p. 19). Or else enjoy the town’s cosy bars or the local spa
options. If your timing is right, you can join in two colourful
local traditions: the Christmas markets (p. 36) and Lucerne’s
huge carnival, fasnacht (p.11). Both give a shine to even the
darkest winter days!
Editorial oﬃce Lucerne
Lucerne In Your Pocket, c/o KulturKopf GmbH
Winkelriedstrasse 36, 6003 Luzern
Editors Kathy Bajaria & Chris Young
Research Lukas Füglister, Corinne Imbach
Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman, Photos For photographers see
photos, Cover © iStock.com/rilcombs
And really, after one of the rainiest summers on record in
Switzerland: you probably picked just the right season to
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Lukas Füglister
Sales Matteo Lettieri, +41 32 510 85 76,
Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch,
closing date next issue: March 20, 2015
Our cover shows Lucerne’s
‘second’ wooden bridge
across the river Reuss, the
Spreuer Brücke, and the
town’s old fortiﬁcation, the
Musegg wall with the Männli tower. With the sprinkling
of snow on the roofs of
it could be November just as
well as March.
Copyright notice & Editor’s note
Text and maps copyright pocket publishing GmbH.
Photos copyright photographers. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the copyright owner.
The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from
UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every eﬀort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Lucerne In Your Pocket
ARRIVING BY PLANE
ARRIVING BY CAR
Lucerne is easiest to reach from Zurich International
Airport (ZRH) which has by far the most international
connections compared to the two alternatives EuroAirport
Basel Mulhouse (BSL) and Airport Bern-Belp (BRN).
Zurich airport handles around 700 ﬂights a day going to
over 170 destinations worldwide. You can ﬁnd ATMs and
switzerlandinfo desks at arrival 1 and arrival 2 just after
you pass customs. There is a big public shopping area with
most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 and free Wi-ﬁ for the
ﬁrst 60 minutes, just connect your device to ‘ZurichAirport’.
Direct trains to Lucerne leave Zurich airport every hour
and take 62 minutes, trains that take just 10 minutes longer
leave inbetween. The train station is actually within the
airport, on level -2 of the airport centre, where the main
shopping area and check-in 3 are. Train tickets can be
bought at the counters or at the ticket machines (switch
them to English on the ﬁrst screen) next to the stairs
leading down to the platforms.
The Swiss motorway A2 connects Lucerne to the Gotthard
and Italy to the south and Bern to the north, the motorway
A14 comes from Zurich. This makes getting to Lucerne by
car easy, but parking is scarce and expensive. For overnight
parking you can try ﬁnding a slot in the so-called blue zone
in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00,
indicate your arrival time on your parking disk. In car parks
parking costs approx. 20 - 50Sfr a day.
The legal alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%, which should
allow you to have roughly one glass of beer before driving.
The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h
outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential
zones in Lucerne, the speed limit is often 30km/h. Fines
are high and yes, Switzerland has agreements with many
European countries to make sure you pay the ﬁne even if
you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home
driving license in Switzerland as long as it is valid - if
the license is a non EU-one and in a language other than
French, English, Italian or German it is recommended that it
be accompanied by an international one.
Lucerne train station is as well organised as the whole train
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
We have come a long way in the 22
years since we published the ﬁrst
In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in
Lithuania - so much so that we are
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million, spread across more than 100
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Lucerne’s main train station is right in the centre of town,
with the lake and the KKL to one side and the old town
just a few minutes’ walk away. International and domestic
connections leave and arrive here. At the station you will
ﬁnd ticket oﬃces, the tourist information as well as
shopping. Buses and taxis leave just in front the station.
Of the suburban train stations, the one at the Transport
Museum (Verkehrshaus) is most likely to interest you.
At the ticket oﬃce in the main hall you can buy train
tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets
for public transport in Lucerne and also change money. For
time tables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch or call +41 900
300 300 (1.19Sfr/min).
Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using
the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr
(available at petrol stations and post oﬃces). Remember
that pedestrians on zebra-crossings without traﬃc lights
always have right of way, as do trams.
ARRIVING BY BUS
Though there are not a huge number of long-distance
bus connections from Lucerne, you can travel to several
destinations in Italy, Croatia and southern France.
Buses arrive and leave at Inseliquai 10, just to the east of
the main train station, near the lakeshore.
October 2014 - March 2015
Arriving & Getting Around
once an hour. The state owned train company is called
SBB. For time tables refer to www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold
on vending machines (switch them to English on the ﬁrst
screen) and at the counters in Lucerne main train station.
You can purchase single and return tickets. Children up to
5 travel for free, from 6 - 16 years they pay the half-fare.
If you plan on travelling around Switzerland a lot, get
a half-fare card for one month for 120Sfr - and travel for
half the fare on all public transport. Or get a Swiss Pass
which is valid for all kinds of public transport (272 - 607Sfr,
depending on duration) and free entry to many museums
(www.swisstravelsystem.com). Ask for advice at the train
station. If you board a train without a valid ticket, you will
have to pay a ﬁne of 90Sfr.
Lucerne’s centuries-old town hall with the tower, on Kornmarkt.
Getting around town by bicycle is popular in Lucerne, and
in nice weather it’s a good option for visitors too.
NEXTBIKE - BIKE SHARING
Nextbike is a bike sharing system where you can pick up
bikes at any one of the 60 locations in town around the
clock, either by calling the hotline or using their app or
website. When you enter the bike’s number in the app, it
gives you the number code for the bike lock - and oﬀ you
go. Fees are charged to your visa or mastercard. Before you
can start you need to register online.Qtel. +41 41 50 80
800, www.nextbike.ch. 2Sfr for every hour or part of an
At the main train station, rents out bicycles (from 27Sfr/
half day) and e-bikes (from 38Sfr/half day).QC-4,
Zentralstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. +41 51 227 32 61.
Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat & Sun 09:30 - 19:00.
All you need to rent a car in Switzerland is a credit card, an
ID and a valid licence - some companies do however also
require a minimum age and minimum driving experience.
QD-4, Inseliquai 12b, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 210 57 22,
fax +41 41 210 57 23, www.europcar.ch. Open 07:15 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun closed.
The punctuality of trains in Switzerland is legendary. You
can almost set your watch to the departure times. The train
network is fast, reliable and extensive. For getting around
in Switzerland, trains are deﬁnitely best - from Lucerne
there are connections to all the major Swiss cities at least
Lucerne In Your Pocket
Lucerne’s public transport network includes buses and
local trains. The ticket system is fairly simple: Lucerne’s
regional network is divided into zones. You don’t buy
tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. Lucerne city is zone
number 101 (see map p. 50) which includes all of the
centre and reaches to the Transport Museum on one side
and Kastanienbaum and parts of Kriens on the other. Tickets
are valid in the chosen zones on buses and local trains. A day
pass for zone 101 valid for 24 hours costs 6.40Sfr, a single
ticket valid for 45 min 3.20Sfr. Children under 6 travel for free,
6 - 16 year-olds pay the so-called half-fare (which actually is
2.80Sfr). These tickets can be purchased with cash or credit
cards at the ticket machines you ﬁnd at almost every stop
(switch to English on the ﬁrst screen). If you get caught
without a valid ticket, it’s 90Sfr. For all questions about public
transport, get advice at the Lucerne City Transport (VBL)
sales points at the main train station (in the underground
shopping area) or at Schwanenplatz.
City transport in Lucerne runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30.
There are night buses in the nights Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun
to the surroundings (like Kriens or Littau) which leave at
the main train station. The tickets for 7Sfr or 10Sfr can be
bought from the driver. Day passes aren’t valid.
Switzerland: 41285 sq km
Lucerne (canton): 1493 sq km
Lucerne (city): 29 sq km
Switzerland: 8.0 million
Lucerne (city): 80,000
Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh
Central European (GMT+1h)
Switzerland is not a member of the European customs
union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to
buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling
from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight
restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty
from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the
following customs and tax allowances apply (for other
countries check with the according customs authorities):
Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets
are round and take three round pins (types C and J) - they
can take europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from
the US, UK or Ireland you deﬁnitely need an adaptor - as
well as from many other countries. In modern hotels you
might ﬁnd multi-use sockets. Otherwise ask for an adaptor
at the reception or buy one in a traveller’s or electronics
Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20)
cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 gr (50) of smoking tobacco.
Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits
with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer.
Other goods: Max. value of all goods: 430 euros for air
travellers and 300 euros for other travellers.
Goods over these limits must be declared when entering a
EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply.
In Switzerland there is duty free shopping for arriving
passengers as well.
There are around 500 licenced taxis in Lucerne and in
general they are clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It’s
usually easy to get one, even in rush hours. The city sets the
following maximum fees for taxis: initial fee 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr/
km up to 20Sfr, 3.50Sfr/km above 20Sfr. Taxi drivers have
to and usually do use their metres. Cheating is rare. Two
pieces of hand luggage are free, suitcases, dogs and extra
hand luggage can be charged at 1Sfr/piece. You’ll ﬁnd taxis
at oﬃcial taxi stands at the train station, at Schwanenplatz,
behind Hotel National and in other places. You can hail
them from the streets as well.
TAXI OLÉ, +41 41 360 55 55, www.taxi-olé-luzern.ch
Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak
If you need medical attention, there is a walk-in medical
centre for all kinds of consultations at the main train
station. The emergency unit at the hospital is always
HOSPITAL KANTONSSPITAL LUZERN
Lucerne’s hospital has a 24h emergency walk-in service.
Buses 18 and 19 go here from the train station.QA-1,
Spitalstrasse, uKantonsspital, tel. +41 41 205 11 11,
www.luks.ch. Open 24/7.
LUZERN OR LUCERNE?
Here are two companies if you want to order a taxi:
TAXI HESS, +41 41 310 10 10, www.hesstaxi.ch
The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer
and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer
are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5
litre Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale
brewers (in Lucerne you‘ll usually ﬁnd Eichhof, which now
belongs to the Dutch Heineken breweries) are increasingly
getting competition from innovative local brewers. Check
out Luzerner Bier, Lozärner Bier (yep, not the same) or
Appenzeller for instance.
Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the
best may come from further south, you‘ll ﬁnd some very
good Blauburgunders (red) and Riesling Sylvaners (white)
from the Lucerne region. Traditional Swiss spirits are fruit
brandies, cherry (Kirsch) and pear (Williams) being the
The city sits on one arm of many-armed Lake Lucerne.
What’s in a name? If you look for the destination
Lucerne on a timetable, you might wonder if the place
has gone missing! But no fear - the German spelling
is Luzern. That is standard German however: in dialect
it’s Lozärn, but now we’re getting a bit advanced. The
simple math is: Lucerne = Luzern.
October 2014 - March 2015
Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be
always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘
in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in
the Scottish loch. Mind your throat.
(as in French)
Switzerland has four oﬃcial languages: German (spoken
by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh
(0.5%). Lucerne lies in the German speaking part of the
country, where people speak a German dialect, Swiss
German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work
or when dealing with the authorities, people speak
dialect. However, Swiss people use standard German,
so-called Hochdeutsch, when writing and at school.
A lot of Swiss speak English fairly well, especially the
younger generation. So generally getting by in English
is no problem.
LOST & FOUND
PERMANENCE MEDICAL CENTRE
This medical centre in the underground shopping area
of the train station is the easiest place to go if you have
any medical needs. Go to the reception desk when
you arrive, you’ll then probably have to wait a while.
QC-4, Bahnhofplatz, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 211 14 44,
www.permanence-luzern.ch. Open 365 days, Mon - Thu
07:00 - 23:00, and non-stop Fri 07:00 - Sun 23:00.
Pharmacies (Apotheke in German) on night duty are
open 24 hours, a sign on every pharmacy’s door will tell
you where the next pharmacy on duty is. You can also
call +41 41 211 33 33 which will connect you to the next
pharmacy on duty. The pharmacy at the main train station
is open Mon - Sat 07:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00 (in the
underground shopping area, +41 41 220 13 13).
INTERNET & WI-FI
Luckily, most hotels and many cafés, bars and restaurants in
Lucerne oﬀer free Wi-ﬁ. You will also ﬁnd the commercial
Wi-ﬁ providers Monzoon and Swisscom all over the city.
You can subscribe to their services on the start page you
get on your browser once you connect to their hotspots all you need is a credit card. Prices are rather high (around
5Sfr for 30min or 25Sfr for 24h).
Lucerne In Your Pocket
MEET THE HOTELIER
For this issue we spoke to
Alessandro Pedrazzetti. He
runs the Hotel ContinentalPark, a family business in the
third generation. The family
has its roots in Lucerne and
in Ticino and upholds a long
tradition of Ticinese cuisine
in their bellini Ristorante
What do you like best about your job?
Helping guests to make their holiday nice and beautiful.
ATM’s. Credit cards are widely accepted in shops and
restaurants. Service is always included. At a restaurant
however, if you were happy with the service, leave 5-10%
of the bill as a tip.
What was the most extraordinary request a guest
ever put to you?
An Arabian sheik once wanted to book the whole
hotel with its restaurant exclusively for himself and his
What do you personally like about Lucerne?
The lake, the mountains and the cleanliness.
Swiss post is generally reliable, and also can take care of
all your ﬁnancial transactions. There are post oﬃces all over
the city - the university post oﬃce just next to the train
station has long opening hours (see below).
The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct
democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a
stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament
are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and
the seven-member government appointed by parliament
always includes representatives of all of the four or ﬁve
major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting
of 26 cantons, which have their own constitutions,
parliaments and governments. Bern is the capital and the
seat of the parliament and the federal authorities. Due to
the understanding of political independence many locals
favour, Switzerland is not a member of the EU. Switzerland
does, however, cooperate with the EU in many areas, such
as on the Schengen visa and border agreement.
Berchtold Day (local)
St. Leodegar’s Day (local)
All Saint’s Day (local)
St. Stephen’s Day
If you’ve lost something, you might have a happy reunion
at the lost & found, fundbüro in German. It’s located at the
police station at Hirschengraben 17b (B-4), tel +41 41 248
86 66, open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 12:00, 13:30 - 17:00. If you
might have lost your item on a train or at the train station,
also try the lost & found at the station.
One of Lucerne’s post oﬃces with the longest opening
hours.QC-4, Frohburgstrasse 3, uBahnhof. Open 09:00
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30.
The arcades along Unter der Egg - nothing to do with eggs, mind.
February 12, 16 & 17, 2015
April 3, 2015
April 6, 2015
May 14, 2015
May 25, 2015
June 4, 2015
The currency of Switzerland is the Swiss franc (Sfr), which
equals 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, 20, 50,
100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1,2 and 5
francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.You can change
your money at the SBB change at the train station or any
of the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your
Maestro or your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous
Lucerne is generally a safe city, and there is no no-go area,
even for women at night. Of course crime exists, and be
on guard against pickpockets just as in any European city.
Loaf of bread
2-5Sfr (€1.65 - 4.15)
Cup of coﬀee
4-6Sfr (€3.30 - 5)
0.3 litre of beer (bar)
Public transport ticket, 1 hr 3.20Sfr (€2.65)
Packet of cigarettes
McDonald‘s Big Mac
The Swiss national bank aims for an exchange rate of
at least 1.20Sfr/€ (0.83 € per 1Sfr).
The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in publicly
accessible buildings and public transport is generally illegal
in Switzerland. In Lucerne however, if restaurants and bars
are under 80 sqm, they can opt to be smoking venues and
quite a few do so. We mark them with X.
Lucerne Tourism’s tourist information oﬃce is in the
building of the main train station, but is accessible from
What is not to miss in Lucerne?
The view from the citywall over Lucerne with the
beautiful view to the Alps!
Which restaurants and bars do you recommend?
There are so many possibilities in Lucerne for eating
and drinking, depending on what you prefer – just
always take a Lucerne In Your Pocket with you.
What makes the Hotel Continental-Park special?
That it is personally run by the owners and has a unique
restaurant ‘bellini Ristorante Ticinese’ where you can
enjoy light and authentic Swiss Ticino and north Italian
dishes. In summer our guests enjoy relaxing moments
in our garden restaurant under the old and mighty
Lucerne In Your Pocket is... easy to take with me!
Zentralstrasse, outside the station.QC-4, Zentralstrasse 5,
uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 227 17 17, fax +41 41 227 17
20, www.luzern.ch. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00, from Nov - Mar 08:30 - 17:30, Sat 09:00
- 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply
need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even
though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland
is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a
Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check
these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate.
October 2014 - March 2015
Lucerne’s crazy carnival
LUCERNE IS BIG IN ROME
XVI – XVII Century
Religion became a big issue in the 1500s as the Reformation
swept across Europe. Neighbouring confederates Zurich
and Bern both grasped the new confession. Lucerne,
however, remained with the old faith and became a centre of
Catholicism, with new monasteries of the Capuchins, Jesuits
and Ursulines being built in the 16th and 17th centuries. Faith
also caused tensions (and wars!) within the Swiss confederacy,
and Lucerne became the leader of the Catholic camp. In this
role, Lucerne became the seat of the nuncio, the papal envoy,
in 1586 and the seat of the Spanish ambassador in 1595.
FASNACHT – DAYS OF MUSIC, MASKS AND MAD PARTYING
Lucerne’s big and popular fasnacht starts at 5:00 in the
morning on Dirty Thursday (Schmotzige Donnschtig), when
Brueder Fritschi the imaginary chief of the guild Zunft zum
Safran is the centre of attention, a ﬁgure which goes back
to 1446 when the townsmen celebrated their victory in
battle over the Habsburgs. Brueder Fritschi lands by boat
at Schweizerhofquai and opens fasnacht oﬃcially with
the Urknall (a loud bang) and the Fötzeliräge (confetti rain)
on Kapellplatz. The celebrations continue with the Fritschi
parade in the afternoon, continue on Monday with the
Weyumzug, another big parade and end on Shrove Tuesday
(Güdiszischtig) with the so-called Monstercorso, a huge
parade of carnival big bands (guggemusig) and lanterns in
THE WAR BUSINESS
Leodegar, Lucerne’s patron saint on the doors of the Hofkirche.
THE ‘CITY OF LIGHT’
Stone age – IX Century
Although stone-age settlements and the Romans left a
few traces, Lucerne doesn’t emerge out of the darkness of
history until around 840. The name Luciaria is mentioned
in documents, which may mean ‘place of light’ – it is a
popular sobriquet for Lucerne today. This early mediaeval
town consisted mainly of the Benedictine abbey of Saint
Leodegar, who is the town’s patron saint, and the houses at
either end of the bridge across the River Reuss.
XII – XVII Century
Lucerne was long a regional market town, and the weekly
market on Tuesdays (still held today!) supplied the town’s
hinterland for centuries. In the 13th century north-south
trade across the Gotthard turned Lucerne into a major
commercial centre. The trade across this Alpine pass mainly
connected the Upper Rhine Plain and Milano, and boomed
right up until the 17th century.
XV – XIX Century
Apart from trans-Alpine trade, a major source of income
in Lucerne and its backcountry were mercenaries, young
Swiss men who were sent to ﬁght for France, Spain, the
Duchy of Savoy or other powers of the day. Between ca.
1400 and 1800 around 50,000 men had left the Lucerne
area to serve abroad – and the city of Lucerne only had a
population of around 4000 for most of that period! While a
few of the mercenaries came back rich, many did not come
back at all and the well connected families who brokered
the deals were the ones who beneﬁted most.
NAPOLEON AND THE
BEGINNING OF TOURISM
XVIII – XIX Century
In 1798 Lucerne lost its independence as Napoleon occupied
the Swiss Confederacy and transformed it into the Helvetic
Republic for a brief ﬁve years. After a return of the old powers,
Switzerland was born in 1848, when the modern nation state
was founded. In 1859 modernity reached Lucerne in the shape
of the railway, and the town started expanding in earnest on
the southern shore of the river. From 1830 onwards Lucerne
had a new industry – tourism. The lake, the easily accessible
mountains and some of the earliest mountain railways made
it a favourite destination for the still very exclusive group of
people who could aﬀord to travel for pleasure. Many of the
grand hotels and attractions like the Gletschergarten were
built towards the end of the 19th century.
Lucerne’s fasnacht masks can be amazingly elaborate - like this one.
Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus
For a few days in late winter Lucerne goes wild. The streets
are full of people in wild and wonderful masks, playing
horrendously loud music on trumpets, horns and drums – this
is fasnacht, the Swiss version of carnival.
The Swiss carnival called fasnacht is a major event in
many cities. Like Rio has its samba tradition, several Swiss
cities have their own enthusiastically cultivated fasnacht
customs. And Lucerne has one of the liveliest and loudest
ones. Many Luzerner literally live for this celebration
which takes place in February or March, waiting all year
for fasnacht to come, creating new elaborate costumes
and rehearsing their music routines in many fasnachtassociations, guilds or brass bands (guggenmusig).
As Rio has its Carnival, Lucerne
has its fasnacht.
ALLIANCES WITH THE
Basically a mediaeval Christian tradition, fasnacht
literally is the night before the fasting. An unruly
celebration before Easter, it traditionally had to end at
the latest by Ash Wednesday, when the strict 40-day
fasting period started, where meat, alcohol and festivities
were prohibited. With that prospect before them, it’s
no wonder that people took the partying seriously. The
custom also has the function of scaring winter away and
making way for spring.
XIII – XIV Century
Preceding the 15th century, Lucerne was unproblematically
under Habsburg rule. In 1332, due to a power struggle
between the German kings Ludwig and Friedrich, Lucerne
entered a pact with the three waldstätten or ‘forest counties’,
Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden which encircle Lake Lucerne
(or the Vierwaldstättersee, the ‘lake of the four forest
counties’, as it is known locally). This military alliance was
slowly to expand until it became the Swiss confederacy, the
precursor of the modern Swiss state.
XX - XI Century
In the 20th century, Lucerne developed into a vibrant centre
for the region of Central Switzerland, becoming a university
city in 2000. The concert hall KKL (p. 29) by architect Jean
Nouvel was also opened in 2000, giving the town a new
face. In the realm of culture Lucerne is famous for hosting the
second largest – after Basel – and loudest Swiss carnival and
the Lucerne Festival for classical music. The festival enjoys huge
international renown, particularly due to Claudio Abbado who
was head conductor from 2003 until his sudden death in 2014.
During mediaeval fasnacht everything was turned
topsy-turvy, you could make fun of authorities without
fearing punishment and parody and satirical humour ran
wild. Poking fun at the powerful is still a central aspect
of modern-day fasnacht in Lucerne. And here they are
especially proud of their arty masks, the so called grende.
The associations put an unbelievable amount of handiwork
and time into the production of these masks, as you will
realise when you see them.
10 Lucerne In Your Pocket
In Lucerne there is no way to avoid fasnacht. Many ﬁrms
and shops even close during fasnacht, so that everyone
can take part! Luzern’s streets and bars are packed
especially on Thursday, Monday and Tuesday with masked
groups and bands wandering through the streets (there
are two stages for the bands) and people pouring in from
all over the region to get in on the fun. It’s boisterous, loud
and colourful and if you want to see a diﬀerent kind of
local culture and get some partying in – it’s for you. If you
choose to visit during fasnacht you just have to participate
- but most probably you’ll choose the date on purpose
LOZÄRNER FASNACHT 2015
Here is the programme of the carnival in 2015. There are
usually also some events in the weeks before fasnacht
proper. Check www.luzerner-fasnacht.ch or www.lfk.ch
for more details as the event gets closer.
Thu February 12 - Schmotzige Donschtig
Tagwach and Urknall on Kapellplatz
Brueder Fritschi oﬃcially opens the
Fasnacht with a big bang and confetti
Fritschiumzug, big parade through the
city (watch e.g. on Seebrücke)
afterwards street carnival, bands in the streets and
on the stages
Mon February 16 - Güdis Mentig
Weyumzug, big parade through the city
afterwards street carnival, bands in the streets and
on the stages
Tue February 17 - Güdis Zischtig
street carnival starts, bands in the
streets and on the stages
Monstercorso - the grand ﬁnale
parade of the bands and associations.
October 2014 - March 2015
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
Lucerne has a rich cultural life, a packed programme of
excellent classical concerts at the KKL and elsewhere, opera
and theatre at the Stadttheater and a host of venues for
electronic music, pop, jazz, metal etc.
We list the most important venues in the venue list and
refer to them only by name in the event list. If the event
takes place in a less usual venue, we indicate the full
address in the preview. Events are listed in the categories
classical music, exhibitions, festivals, musicals and rock &
pop concerts. Within the sections it’s ordered by date.
THE BEST OPERA CHOIRS
- ORCHESTRA FILARMONICA ITALIANA
Conductor: Manfred Obrecht. Choirs: Konzertchor Klangwerk Luzern, Männerchor Sursee. Works by C. M. von
Weber, J. Oﬀenbach, G. Verdi et al.QKKL. Concert starts
Of course there are far more events than we can list. We
recommend checking out www.null41.ch/kulturkalender
for more events (Only in German, click ‘Veranstaltungen’ on
the left and type ‘Luzern’ in the search bar).
19.11 WEDNESDAY & 20.11 THURSDAY
LUCERNE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA - LSO
Conductor: James Gaﬃgan, violoncello: Emmanuelle
Bertrand. Works by Joseph Haydn, Camille Saint-Saëns and
Henri Dutilleux.QKKL. Concert start 19:30, 25-110Sfr.
14.01 WEDNESDAY & 15.01 THURSDAY
LUCERNE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA - LSO
Conductor: Ilan Volkov, violin: Isabelle Faust. Works by
Giacinto Scelsi, Alban Berg, Robert Schumann and W. A.
Mozart.QKKL. Concert start 19:30, 25-110Sfr.
LUCERNE VENUE LIST
Concert hall with outstanding accoustics. Hosts
classical concerts, the Lucerne festival and occasionally
rock and pop stars. Tickets: www.kkl-luzern.ch,
+41 41 226 77 77.QEuropaplatz 1, uBahnhof,
Folk, rock, metal - lots of big names play here. Tickets:
www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min).
QC-6, Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. +41
41 368 10 30, www.schuur.ch.
QC-4, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 226 78
Tickets under +41 41 228 14 14, ticket oﬃce
opens 1h before the evening performances.
QB-4, Theaterstrasse 2, uBahnhof, www.luzerner
12 Lucerne In Your Pocket
Concentration please! Master pianist Leif Ove Andsnes in action.
07.03 SATURDAY - 15.03 SUNDAY
FUMETTO - COMIX FESTIVAL
Fumetto is one of the most important comics festivals in
Europe: it features about a dozen exhibitions of comics
artists as well as around 40 so-called satellite exhibitons
in many locations throughout the city featuring young
artists and new trends. It draws around 50,000 visitors in
9 days, making for a vibrant festival atmosphere round
the main locations. Check their website for details.QB-3,
Kornschütte, Kornmarkt 3, www.fumetto.ch. Buy tickets
at the festival centre at Kornschütte, more information
on their website.
21.03 SATURDAY - 29.03 SUNDAY
LUCERNE FESTIVAL AT EASTER
This is the kickoﬀ of the 2015 festival season: over a nineday period, Lucerne Festival at Easter provides musical
experiences with a focus on sacral music - the perfect way
to get in the mood for the Easter season! Check website
for programme.QKKL, www.lucernefestival.ch. Tickets:
www.lucernefestival.ch, +41 41 226 44 80 or at the box
office at KKL during the festival.
Lucerne has ﬁve cinemas, apart from a few temporary
movie events. Traditionally ﬁlms in Switzerland are
shown in their original language with German and
French subtitles. But this has changed somewhat, with
more and more ﬁlms being dubbed. Particularly in
smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the
original language - lots of them in English of course.
They are marked with the letters Edf in the programmes
(English with German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in German.
Check the daily newspapers or www.cineman.ch
for programme and screening times. And don‘t be
surprised when the movie stops after an hour and the
lights are turned on - it‘s just the Swiss-style movie
break allowing you to fetch another drink or snack.
Tickets cost between 13 and 18Sfr, depending on the
movie and the seat category you choose. On Mondays
tickets are 13Sfr in all cinemas on all seats.
The capitol shows a wide range of ﬁlms, from studio
to hollywood, from thriller to comedy on six screens.
Snacks and drinks for sale. You can reserve tickets on
+41 900 556 789, but the charges are a quite hefty initial
1.50Sfr and 1.50Sfr a minute.QC-5, Zentralstrasse 45,
EXHIBITIONS & FAIRS
08.11 SATURDAY - 16.11 SUNDAY
LUCERNE BLUES FESTIVAL
Every November for the last 20 years now, Lucerne has
become a hot-spot for blues lovers - when the Lucerne
Blues Festival takes place! This year’s festival features
John Németh, Otis Clay, Delbert McClinton, Trudy Lynn,
Mississipi Heat, The 44’s feat. Kirk Fletcher and many more.
Besides the groovy concerts at the casino (on Sat Nov 8
and Wed Nov 12 they are free), there are blues brunches
at hotels Schweizerhof and Seeburg.QGrand Casino
Lucerne, Haldenstrasse 6, www.bluesfestival.ch. Tickets:
www.ticketcorner. ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min).
22.11 SATURDAY - 30.11 SUNDAY
LUCERNE FESTIVAL AT THE PIANO
Nine days of outstanding piano concerts, that’s the
Lucerne Festival at the piano! Beethoven fans will be
completely in their element at this year’s festival. The
Norwegian master pianist Leif Ove Andsnes will join
with the Mahler Chamber Orchestra to perform all ﬁve
of the genius’ piano concertos. The Beethoven Journey,
his name for this project, is taking Andsnes around the
world in 2015. In a wonderful complement, British
pianist Paul Lewis has programmed Beethoven’s last
three piano sonatas. And Martin Helmchen will likewise
explore the sound world of this titanic composer as he
performs the Diabelli Variations. The oﬀ-stage concert
series in restaurants and bars throughout Lucerne
makes sure the piano festival isn’t alive only at the KKL.
Participating venues are for example Seebar and the
hotels Des Balances, National and Schweizerhof (free
admission!).QKKL, www.lucernefestival.ch. Tickets:
www.lucernefestival.ch, +41 41 226 44 80 or at the box
office at KKL during the festival.
A busy space, empty: one of Candida Höfer’s opera shots.
01.11 SATURDAY - 08.02 SUNDAY
Where are the people? Libraries, museums, palaces
and opera houses - since the 1970s Candida Höfer has
photographed places where many people usually come
together. However, her large photos are deserted and focus
entirely on the architecture. As a graduate of the famous
Becher school at the Düsseldorf Art Academy Candida Höfer
has consistently and independently pursued her work. In
addition to the large-format interior of opera palaces and
cultural institutions, photos of some early series are on
show.QKunstmuseum Luzern. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed
10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. Admission 15/6Sfr.
26.09 FRIDAY - 08.03 SUNDAY
THE WALL - FROM MUSEGG TO GAZA
The Lucerne city wall Musegg and the wall in Gaza are
of course two entirely diﬀerent walls. And yet these
walls have one thing in common: they are visible signs
The moderne with one screen belongs to the same
chain as the capitol and shows a similar choice. Snacks
and drinks for sale. You can reserve tickets on +41
900 556 789, but the charges are a quite hefty initial
1.50Sfr and 1.50Sfr a minute.QB-5, Pilatusstr. 21,
Independent operator showing studio productions at
the Bourbaki location. 105 seats.QC-2, Löwenplatz
11, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 30 60,
of separation of people with diﬀerent religious, political
or social backgrounds. This exhibition illustrates various
functions of walls. What happens behind, along and on
a wall? How is communication inﬂuenced by a wall?
How can walls be overcome or undermined? Selected
examples of walls from the distant past to the present,
from the Museggmauer by way of the Berlin Wall to
the Gaza Strip are examined. These walls had and have
an existential dimension: they shape people’s lives,
no matter which side they are on.QA-4, Historisches
Museum, Pfistergasse 24, uKasernenplatz, tel. +41
41 228 54 24, www.historischesmuseum.lu.ch. Open
10:00 - 17:00, Mon closed. Admission 10/8/5Sfr.
October 2014 - March 2015
Culture & Events
The blues man is coming! Philipp Fankhauser.
17.10 FRIDAY - 22.02 SUNDAY
THE BLACK RIDER
- THE CASTING OF THE MAGIC BULLETS
Theatre/musical by William S. Burroughs, Tom Waits und
Robert Wilson. In diﬀerent languages.QLuzerner Theater.
October 17, 19, 22, 25, 31. November 2, 7, 15, 16, 20, 27,
29. December 4, 8. January 22. February 21, 22. 25-80Sfr.
& JAZZ CONCERTS
For more venues with live music, see our box ‘live music
venues’ on p. 25.
2005 this alternative rock band had quite some success
with their debut album A Certain Trigger. Almost 10 years
14 Lucerne In Your Pocket
On the cheap
The alternative metal rock band Seether from South Africa
will rock the stage of the Schüür with their sixth album
Isolate & Medicate.QSchüür. Concert starts 19:00, 48Sfr.
His trademark is his expressive, smoky voice: Swiss blues
master Philipp Fankhauser is on tour with his new album
Home.QKKL. Concert starts 19:30, 45-85Sfr.
The Bourbaki is a cinema - but it’s much more than that,
it’s a lively cultural crossroads. When you walk into the
Bourbaki you’ll immediately notice the circular layout
- the generous Bourbaki bar/bistro is arranged on a
huge wooden ﬂoor-ring around the central column.
The bustling but relaxed atmosphere make this a great
place for a cup of coﬀee or a glass of wine before a ﬁlm,
or at any other time of the day. They also have sweets,
snacks and a small choice of meals. Go upstairs and
you’ll ﬁnd the Bourbaki panorama (see photo above)
- built in 1889 it’s the reason for the circular layout. The
panorama is a kind of 19th century precursor to the
cinema, and absolutely worth a visit. Go down the stairs
to ﬁnd the four cinema screens, where mainly studio
ﬁlms are shown, including many Swiss productions. The
ticket counters for the panorama and the cinema are
on ground level. The ground ﬂoor is also home to the
kunsthalle luzern, an art museum which focuses on
provocative, contemporary art, showing international
and Swiss artists (www.kunsthalleluzern.ch).QC-2,
Löwenplatz 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 419 99
99, www.bourbakipanorama.ch, www.kinoluzern.ch.
The Belgian blues-rock dandies Triggerﬁnger are ﬁnally on
tour again with their much anticpated album By Absence
Of The Sun. Some say they are one of the best live bands
on the planet. That might be promising a bit much, but
they certainly have a huge drive when they’re on stage.
QSchüür. Concert starts 19:30, 42Sfr.
Lads and lasses
Louise Rhodes and Andy Barlow alias Lamb are veterans of
the trip-hop genre. And they are particularly stunning live.
Fascinating soundscapes, a mix of jazz, dub, breakbeats,
drum’n’bass and more - enjoy!QSchüür. Concert starts
on, their latest record Too much information is proof that
they’re still going strong.QSchüür. Concert starts 20:00,
JAZZ & FUNK AT LOUIS BAR
At Louis Bar in the Hotel Montana there are often
jazz, funk, piano and soul concerts from Tuesday to
Sunday (usually free admission). The atmosphere here
is somewhere between mondaine and relaxed, and
if you’re into this kind of music you deﬁnitely should
experience a night at the Louis Bar. If you happen to
be a whiskey lover (or if you like cigars), even better.
On Thursdays there is always a jam session (21:30).
QMontana Art Deco Hotel, Adligenswilerstrasse 2,
One thing to look
forward to in the
frosty season is the
This hearty 'soup' of hot bubbling
cheese is very popular with locals,
but it can take some getting used
to. Enjoy in a restaurant (p. 19) or
even on a lake cruise (p. 40).
You don't have to go far for a
plate of piping-hot Thai curry or a
scrumptious noodle dish. Takrai
Thai (Haldenstrasse 9, D-2) is close
to hotel Grand National and this
takeaway and small restaurant is
great value too!
This tiny bar has
long been one of
our favourites – and
Kulturbeiz (p. 23)
has grown a few sizes. They like to
keep it local here: the beer, the
wine, the spirits, the cheese and
vegetables and even the occasional
bands are sourced locally.
If you want to make your francs
last longer, stick to beer! Head for
the up-and-coming, scruﬀy Bruch
quarter grab a take-away beer on
the way, then try the Metzgerhalle (p. 24) and check out the bars
round about. There's something
new here almost every week!
You can't come here for bowling
anymore, but if you're looking for
music, dancing and partying folk,
you're in the right lane at Klub
Kegelbahn (p. 26) in a former
bowling centre. And who knows,
you might just knock someone over
with your charm.
Get your skates on! When the temperatures drop, ice skating (p. 40) is
a popular pastime in Lucerne. The Art
on Ice skating rink next to the KKL and
the lake is a great place show your
skills. And don’t worry if you’re a bit
wobbly: the spectacular light show is
sure to distract everyone.
beer is just one
reason to head for
restaurant (p. 20). The solid, Swiss
style fare and large portions is
another. And with the regular live
bands they host you've got to be
Looking for a cosy restaurant? In
the evening Barbès is a Moroccan
restaurant with candle lighting and
platters of wonderful mezze you can
share. One plate per person is just
Bar Suite (p. 24) is a sophisticated
drinking environment on the seventh ﬂoor of hotel Metropol, with
views across the roofs of Lucerne.
If the weather permits enjoy their
magniﬁcent terrace, otherwise
cuddle up in one of their sofas.
The 1871 (p. 16) was opened in
that year, but its chefs deﬁnitely
keep up with the times. The magniﬁcent French Renaissance dining
hall, happily, has stayed in the past.
This dining experience with its
superb location right on the lake is
one of the ﬁnest in town.
Are the names Lagavulin, Talisker or
Bowmore sweet music in your ears?
Then you must make suire you visit
the Louis bar (p. 23) with it's really
exceptional selection of whiskeys.
But even if you're not a lover of the
smoky spirit, this Art-Déco hotel bar
with views of the lake is an exquisite place to spend an evening.
Does hot wine
You might not be
Well, glühwein or
able to say it, but you
piping hot, spiced
might still like to try
mulled wine is an
this culinary speciality of Lucerne.
indispensable part of the
Basically a meat pie, it is a puﬀ-pastry Christmas season in Switzerland.
cup ﬁlled with little sausage-meat
A cup of glühwein will keep you
balls (chügeli) and sometimes innards nice and warm while you tour the
(sweetbread) in a creamy sauce.
Christmas markets (p. 36)
Nearly all of the sights
Lucerne is so famous
for – and has been for
nearly two centuries
– are free! You can see
the Chapel Bridge, the Spreuer
Bridge and the Lion Monument
without paying a penny (p. 27).
How about some
high-speed snow fun?
On a sunny winter's
day you have loads of
options. For instance
go sledging on Mount Rigi (p. 41).
Rent a few sledges on site and race
your mates down the four sledge
Why not pamper yourself and your
loved one with a spa treatment?
Hotel Schweizerhof (p. 42) oﬀers
anything from simple neck massages
to chocolate and coconut full-body
peelings for guests and external
customers. Or try the rose-petal bath
for two with champagne included.
Since its opening in
1998 the KKL concert
centre has become a
magnet for stars of the
classical music scene.
You can often hear the likes of Bartoli,
Mutter, Järvi or Schiﬀ here. No
wonder, with the exceptional
acoustics of the concert hall.
bands and lots of
merry making: in
Swiss version of Carnival, takes place
in Lucerne. It's a huge party which ﬁlls
the streets and bars for nearly a week.
Our feature on p. 11 has the full story.
October 2014 - March 2015
Lucerne’s chefs have more to oﬀer than Swiss classics
or the Lucerner chügelipastetli. Lucerne culinary class goes
from tasty take-aways to exquisite ﬁne dining. You can
also ﬁnd food from many parts of Asia, Europe and the
Americas, while many other places take their inspirations
from a wide variety of regional cuisines. We list the places
we recommend within any particular category. Prices are
indicated with the € icons - € indicates most mains are
under 25Sfr, €€ mains 25 - 40Sfr, €€€ mains 40 - 55Sfr,
€€€€ most mains over 55Sfr. This applies to the evening
menus, for lunch many restaurants oﬀer special cheaper
deals (on workdays). Note that many restaurants close
their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in
the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. The letter and the number
(e.g. A-1) after the venue name indicate the coordinates for
ﬁnding it on the map in the back of this guide.
Discrete Asian chic at the Mekong.
A Credit cards accepted
X Smoker lounge
E Live music
N No credit cards
S Take away
C-1 Map coordinates
u Nearest (trolley)bus stop
B Outdoor seating
This long established ﬁrst-ﬂoor Indian restaurant close to the
Lion Monument oﬀers a host of southern Indian specialities
such as masala dosa and idlies. They also serve veg and
non-veg thalis and tandoori dishes.QC-2, Zürichstrasse
4, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 67 08, www.kanchi.ch.
Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 23:00. €€. AS
The snappy, smart service starts with an oﬀer to take your
coat at the door and carries on right through, at the very
professionally run Mekong. The up-market far-eastern
interior and the profuse use of discrete, indirect lighting
complete the package, making this a favourite with
business people. The menu is pan-Asian, with Thai and
Indian curries, wok dishes or e.g. teriyaki grilled chicken, and
a few European-style standards as alternatives. The food is
deﬁnitely good, especially if you don’t mind the strong
Euro touch to the Asian dishes. Limited vegetarian options.
QA-4, Pilatusstrasse 29, uKantonalbank, tel. +41 41 226
88 88, www.mekong-luzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:00
- 23:00, Thu 11:30 - 14:00, 17:00 - 00:30, Fri 11:30 - 14:00,
17:00 - 01:30, Sat 17:00 - 01:30, Sun closed. €€. A
This well-established restaurant in the new town with
stylish interior serves up freshly prepared Thai cuisine using
local Swiss produce. On a busy night it can be a bit of a
squeeze inside, however on a sunny day outdoor seating
is set up on Helvetiaplatz, one of the few squares in the
new town.QB-5, Waldstätterstrasse 3, uBundesplatz,
tel. +41 41 210 55 00, www.chills.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00,
18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 22:00. €€.
Landlocked Switzerland may not be the most obvious
place to seek out sushi, but if you are in that mood then
this ﬁne restaurant with a focus on quality ﬁsh from
environmentally sustainable partners will not disappoint
you. Kaiten sushi means conveyor belt sushi in Japanese.
You pick and choose dishes oﬀ the belt depending on
your preferences and appetite. The coloured ring on the
plates you choose indicate the price. Kaiten also serves a
selection of other Japanese dishes and desserts.QB-5,
Kauffmannweg 16, uKantonalbank, tel. +41 41 210 42
40, www.kaiten.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat
16:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€. A
16 Lucerne In Your Pocket
This lakeside restaurant located in Hotel National (the
restaurant is named after the year in which the hotel was
ﬁrst opened) oﬀers a modern ﬁne-dining experience
in a grand ﬁve-star hotel, whilst at the same time it
manages to remain down to earth creating a relaxed
atmosphere. Its focus is on simple dishes made with
local seasonal produce and the menu changes every two
months. Aside from dinner, they also oﬀer good value
lunch menus and brunch on Sundays. The food is good
but the highlight is the location: enjoy your food in the
charming high-ceilinged French Renaissance dining hall
or on the ground level terrace overlooking Lake Lucerne.
QD-3, Haldenstrasse 4, uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41 422
18 71, www.1871.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. €€€. AB
In the magniﬁcent Hotel Palace on Lucerne’s most
glamorous lake promenade, Jasper has high expectations
to live up to - and it does. There’s no resting on 19th-century
laurels here, the interior design and cuisine are absolutely
state-of-the-art. Fancy a taster? How about veal steak with
a foie gras café-de-paris sauce and chervil gnocchi or grilled
red mullet ﬁlets with mint and pea risotto? One of the ﬁnest
dining experiences in town, and one with a great view of
the lake. A few vegetarian options.QE-2, Haldenstrasse
10, uCasino-Palace, tel. +41 41 416 16 16,
www.palace-luzern.ch. Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00 22:15. €€€. AB
RESTAURANT ZUM SCHLÜSSEL
Chef Franz Mair cultivates traditional Austrian cuisine,
with a few Swiss touches thrown in. Whether it’s the Swiss
essential nüsslisalat (lamb’s lettuce) with croutons, diced
boiled egg and bacon paired with pumpkin seed oil from
the Austrian Steiermark region, tafelspitz (prime boiled
beef ) with horse radish sauce or gröstl (or rösti) with black
pudding (blood sausage) - his team works to high standards.
Add an old-town house with ornate wooden ﬂoors and
ceilings, thoughtful hospitality and genuine friendliness
and you have a thoroughly enjoyable experience.QA-4,
Franziskanerplatz 12, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. +41
41 210 10 61, www.schluessel-luzern.ch. Open 09:00 22:30, Thu - Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. €€. AB
This friendly family-run restaurant with 13 Gault & Millau
points is hidden away between Zürichstrasse and the Lion
Monument. The focus is on using seasonal and regional
products, often prepared with a new twist. Head chef
Markus Thomczyk is renowned for his classic-modern
approach. On warm days you can enjoy your meal sitting
out on the restaurant terrace. As with many restaurants
in Lucerne, Wiederkehr oﬀer good value lunch menus on
weekdays.QC-1, Zürichstrasse 16, uLöwenplatz, tel.
+41 41 410 41 44, www.restaurant-wiederkehr.ch. Open
11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:30 - 24:00, closed Sun
& Mon. €€€. AB
This charming French brasserie, wine bar and café in the
old town is a local favourite. In summer they have a small
terrace with a few tables overlooking the River Reuss and set
out more tables in the cobbled square by the town hall. The
Centuries of history to accompany your meal: Schlüssel.
menu includes mussels, entrecôte and duck as one would
expect, with an accompanying seasonal menu and plenty
of ﬁne wine.QB-3, Kornmarkt 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel.
+41 41 410 01 77, www.brasseriebodu.ch. Open 11:30 23:00. €€. AB
This relaxed, cosy, candlelit restaurant serves up authentic
Moroccan mezze as well as main dishes. It makes fantastic
fresh peppermint tea and is also a place where you can
enjoy a glass of wine at the bar in the evening and soak up
the atmosphere. They also oﬀer lunch menus during the
week.QB-5, Winkelriedstrasse 62, uBundesplatz, tel.
+41 41 210 00 90, www.barbes.ch. Open 10:00 - 00:30,
closed Sun. €. N
One of the larger Spanish tapas restaurants in town and
located in the Bruch quarter, this place is popular among
our Spanish friends living here. Favourite tapas include
sepia a la plancha and albondigas piri-piri, also on oﬀer is
other Spanish fare such as paella and ﬁne red wine as well
as a cosy candlelit atmosphere. Owners Maria and Alberto
ensure a friendly service and there is a terrace outside for
warmer days.QA-4, Bruchstrasse 11, uKasernenplatz,
tel. +41 41 240 17 16, www.cabanas.ch. Open 09:00 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. A
Cool view with hot drinks!
October 2014 - March 2015
DECODING THE MENU
puﬀ pastry with meat sauce
veal (or calf )
cutlet, often breaded
meat in bite-size pieces
aubergine, egg plant
french fries, potato chips
Italian cream dessert
18 Lucerne In Your Pocket
This new, small and authentic Italian restaurant specializes
in home made antipasti and pasta. The photos on the wall
of the owner with multiple Hollywood stars are something
of a mystery, but it seems that he is a celebrity favourite. The
owner will talk you through which fresh dishes they have
on oﬀer and you can make your selection. Also available
to take away.QB-6, Bleicherstrasse 29, uPaulusplatz,
tel. +41 41 360 55 54, www.puntogiusto.ch. Open 10:30
-14:00, 16:00 -19:00, Thu - Sat 11:00 - 14:00, 18:30 22:00, closed Sun. €€. S
Take your pick! Part of Casa Tolone’s choice of wine.
Just a ﬁve-minute walk from the old town, you will ﬁnd
Casa Tolone on a quiet road at the top of a hill; you would be
forgiven for thinking you are in Italy. This friendly authentic
family-run restaurant is something of a hidden gem and has
stood the test of time - it’s celebrating its 20th anniversary
this year. Family Tolone earns praise from regular guests
for their homemade specialities, seasonal menus and
the wide selection of Italian wines, which are listed per
region. On a summer’s eve you can eat outdoors under
the pergola.QC-1, Fluhmattstrasse 48, uSchlossberg,
tel. +41 41 420 99 88, www.casatolone.ch.
Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat & Sun 11:30 23:00. €€. AB
EINHORN (PIZZERIA DA TOMMASO)
This old-town spot is a good solid Italian restaurant which is
very decently priced. Downstairs is the casual pizzeria with
its rustic, red-tiled ﬂoors, upstairs the Einhorn has a slightly
more stylish touch. Service is friendly, with lots of character.
In the summer months there are outdoor tables on the
street, in the pedestrian zone.QC-3, Hertensteinstrasse
23, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 11 06,
www.gastronomia-vaglio.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00,
closed Sun. €. AB
This wooden hut in the industrial area of town is not what
you would expect - it has long been considered one of
Lucerne’s best-kept secrets. With a log ﬁre, an open kitchen,
candlelit tables and mamma-style Italian cooking it is hard
to resist. There is a set four-course menu (64Sfr), but you can
opt out on courses if you like. Soup, salad, pasta and main
courses are served in big bowls and placed in the middle
of your table for you to help yourself. They also serve twocourse lunches (20 Sfr) and have started oﬀering a Sunday
brunch.QC-6, Industriestrasse 7, uWerkhofstrasse, tel.
+41 41 610 13 13, www.grottino1313.ch. Open 11:30 14:00, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30, Sun 09:30 - 14:00.
FELSENEGG GARTEN RESTAURANT
A true gem in the Lucerne restaurant scene. Charismatic
host Franco will welcome you in, whilst Domenico
prepares mouth-watering dishes for your delight. The
fresh daily menus are written on the black board, Italianstyle (just one meat, ﬁsh and vegetarian menu available),
you can decide if you would like to take all courses or to
select speciﬁc dishes. Even though the restaurant is on a
The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, originally
come from the French speaking areas of Switzerland.
Fondue is basically a mix of melted cheese and white wine
bubbling over a small burner which you dip bread cubes
into, while raclette is pure melted cheese which is poured
over boiled potatoes. Even though locals mainly eat these
dishes during the cold time of the year, we deﬁnitely
recommend trying them whatever the season - the
restaurants listed below are specialists.
busy road, in summer you can eat in the garden behind
the restaurant and you quickly forget that you’re in a city.
Deﬁnitely call in advance to book a table as it is often
booked out. They also oﬀer great value lunch menus.
QC-2, Maihofstrasse 4, uSchlossberg, tel. +41 41 420
10 13, www.felsenegg-luzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00,
18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat & Sun. Open Sat evening in
Nov & Dec. €€. AB
Built in 1757, this small castle on the hill surrounded by
parkland overlooks Lucerne, the lake and the mountain
panorama. The building was renovated in the mid-nineties
and opened as a restaurant café in 1997. Serving up coﬀee,
tea and cakes, cocktails, a Mediterranean inﬂuenced
menu at lunch time or in the evening and a selection of
cigars, it has something for all moods. In good weather
sit outside and soak up the peaceful and romantic
ambiance, whilst enjoying the delightful view.QUtenberg
643, uKonservatorium, tel. +41 41 420 00 22,
www.schloessliutenberg.ch. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 24:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon & Tue. €€. A
but if you want to try everything in one go, this is your
opportunity. The combos are not cheap, however.QB-3,
Eisengasse 15, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 412 37 37,
www.fondue-house.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. AB
RIGI-HÜTTE (HOTEL SEEBURG)
Are you looking for that cosy mountain chalet experience...
but in the city? Each year Hotel Seeburg builds its own
winter chalet within one of its charming old hotel buildings
and recreates that rustic alpine-chic atmosphere with
wooden decor, sheepskin rugs, mounted deer antlers and
an open ﬁre. It serves up traditional cheese fondue and
raclette using local produce and for meat fans there is meat
fondue and aelplermagronen, Swiss-style macaroni cheese
with bacon, roast onions and applesauce. If you really
want to get into the spirit, you can start the evening with
a mulled wine outdoors on the terrace in the Stöckli bar.
QSeeburgstrasse 53, uHotel Seeburg, tel. +41 41 375
55 55, www.rigi-huette.ch. November 16, 2014 - January
6, 2015. Open 18:00 - 00:00. Closed Sun & Mon. €€.
Step through the door of this old-town house and you
ﬁnd yourself in a mountain cabin - and a good place
to taste your way through everything fondue-like. The
combo menus give you three fondues in one meal
- choose from cheese, bourguignonne (meats in oil),
chinoise (meats in broth) and chocolate. Bread, potatoes,
sauces and more are served to dip and as sides. Not
exactly authentic, as Swiss don’t mix fondues like this,
October 2014 - March 2015
What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out
is heavily inﬂuenced by their neighbours’ cuisine,
especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine?
Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese
fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by
dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell
can take getting used to! Raclette is another cheese
speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with
diﬀerent pickles and sides. Würste or sausages are also
very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat
(pork) being the most common. One of the Lucerne
specialities is Lozärner Chügelipastetli, basically a meat
pie, it is a puﬀ-pastry cup ﬁlled with little sausage-meat
balls (chügeli) and sometimes innards (sweetbread)
and mushrooms in a creamy sauce. Also on the list
of Swiss traditionals is rösti, a cake of grated and fried
potatoes similar to hash browns. Switzerland has an
impressive range of breads to go with the famous
cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite
for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue
bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly
speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular
too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either
hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then
enjoying with a range of sauces and sides.
As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is
(see box Swiss cuisine), we list some traditional restaurants
here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern
way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue
and raclette, see the box on p. 19.
The Stadtkeller hosts a season of concerts over the winter
months featuring local and international artists. In the
rustical surroundings you can enjoy some hearty Swiss
cuisine beforehand or just come along for the concert later
on. For the coming winter they welcome for example Dr.
Feelgood and the Flying Pickets from the UK and Pink Floyd
cover band Crazy Diamond among others onto their stage.
QB-3, Sternenplatz 3, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410
47 33, www.stadtkeller.ch. Doors open 18:00, concerts
start at 20:30. Nov to Mar concert season. AK
Your ﬁrst glance at the menu might have you wondering
what strange language it’s in, but it’s just Swiss German.
Friendly as they are here, they’ve added English below (and
standard German!). The menu’s inspiration is thoroughly
Swiss too, but it’s far more imaginative than the typical Swiss
repertoire. Besides the Lucerne speciality veal dumplings in
a puﬀ pastry pie or maccaroni Alpine style, the heart of the
menu are the meat patties, in variations with Alpine cheese,
herb liquor or mushrooms. Two are even vegetarian! Try the
regional wines too.QA-4, Burgerstrasse 3, uHirzenhof,
tel. +41 41 210 07 47, www.taube-luzern.ch. Open 11:00
- 24:00, closed Sun. €€. AB
Centuries ago this was the meeting point for the guild of
bakers, millers and sailors. Today this co-operative is where
Swiss people come to eat Swiss food. They have all the
classic Swiss dishes geschnetzeltes with rösti, chögelipastetli,
cordon bleu and home-made fondue in winter. Vegetarian
options are available as are snack platters with meats
and cheeses and typical Swiss pear bread to share. Its
authentic, rustic interior makes for a cosy evening. On a
summer’s day you may opt for one of the tables on the
balcony or to sit on the riverside terrace whilst watching
everyday Lucerne life happen around you. QB-3,
Kornmarkt 4, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 36 50,
www.restaurant-pfistern.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. €€. AB
Pork bratwurst with rösti is one Swiss classic they do
at Wirtshaus Taube.
Formerly a vegetarian restaurant, Hofgarten now serves
meat and ﬁsh but continues to oﬀer the best selection of
vegetarian dishes in town. Using primarily organic, animalfriendly, market fresh ingredients from local farmers,
the food not only looks good but tastes delicious too.
It oﬀers great salads and homemade soups and a SwissMediterranean menu, is open 365 days a year and operates
as a café between meal times.QD-2, Stadthofstrasse 14,
uWey, tel. +41 41 410 88 88, www.hofgarten.ch. Open
11:30 - 14:45, 18:00 - 21:30. €€. AB
In a stately mediaeval house in the very heart of the old
town, Chimney’s majors on grilled meat, with chicken,
lamb, pork and veal on the menu besides the essential
beef cuts: rib eye and T-bone steaks, sirloin and ﬁlet. But
they also oﬀer a good selection of cheese fondues as
well as quite a few other Swiss standards. A highlight:
in nice weather you can dine on car-free Hirschenplatz,
watching the town go by. Smokers can sit and eat in
the neighbouring Martini bar.QB-3, Hirschenplatz
2, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 51 50,
www.chimneys-steakhouse.ch. Open daily 10:00 24:00. €€. ABX
CHURRASCARIA DO SUL
The concept at the Churrascaria Do Sul is
uncompromising: Brazilian churrascaria in pure form.
For a fixed price, a selection of up to eight meats is
served to your table direct off the skewer, direct from
the barbecue. There is a vegetarian alternative, grilled
vegetables and savoury filled pancakes. Other dishes?
Negative. This is a grill house.The meats are of course
served with side dishes and the best thing is: they keep
on coming until you say stop. For one fixed price.QC-1,
Zürichstrasse 66, uSchlossberg, tel. +41 41 420 16
16, www.churrascaria-do-sul.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:30,
17:00 - 00:30, Mon & Tue only 11:00 - 14:30, Sat & Sun
17:00 - 00:30. €€€. A
20 Lucerne In Your Pocket
And it’s just as nice inside! Zunfthausrestaurant Pﬁstern with its
Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus
Stern is located on the peaceful but central Franziskanerplatz
and specializes in modern Swiss cuisine, using products from
local farms. It oﬀers a menu per season and its starter and
dessert concept presents taster jars called ‘shooting stars’,
giving you the opportunity to try various dishes, such as
Engelberg sausage salad with grapes, nuts and brie or for
dessert pear sorbet or vermicelli (sweet chestnut in spaghetti
shape). The atmosphere in Stern lingers somewhere between
casual and smart and the service is professional and friendly.
QA-4, Burgerstrasse 35, uHirzenhof, tel. +41 41 227 50 60,
www.sternluzern.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. €€. A
Stark auf der
Wir verbinden täglich rund 130’000 Menschen.
Nicht nur zum Kaffeekränzchen und wieder nach Hause.
Auch zum Einkauf und Vergnügen.
The Galliker family has run this old-style Swiss tavern for over
150 years and recipes have been passed down over four
generations. This is the place where Swiss people go to eat
traditional Swiss food, from rösti to luzerner chügelipastete
(veal with a creamy mushroom sauce served in puﬀ pastry)
and in autumn they serve up delicious game dishes. Fine
soul food and friendly service from the waiting staﬀ make
for a ﬁne local experience.QA-4, Schützenstrasse 1,
uKasernenplatz, tel. +41 41 240 10 01. Open 11:30 14:00, 17:00 - 22:00, closed Sun & Mon. €€. A
vbl verbindet Menschen.
October 2014 - March 2015
Coﬀee culture in Switzerland is heavily inﬂuenced by
Italy, and many of Lucerne’s bars and cafés are equipped
with excellent Italian espresso machines. Cafés specialise
on coﬀee, tea and sweets, but in many you’ll get meals,
snacks and alcohol too - the boundary between bars and
cafés is not a strict one.
This tiny Italian café on the street corner oﬀers Italianstyle espresso at the bar. Alternatively you can take a seat
at one of the few tables outside (or inside if you prefer),
take a deep breath and relax. This calm space specializes
in quality barista-made coﬀee. For those with an empty
stomach, it oﬀers homemade soup of the day and tramezzini
sandwiches made with local produce.QB-6, Bleicherstrasse
1, uBundesplatz, www.alfred-caffebar.ch. Open 07:00 19:00, Thu & Fri 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
In the Grand Hotel National, the Café César is an opulent
environment with brass chandeliers, upholstered chairs
and heavy curtains. The location on the lake makes the
large terrace particularly inviting, in nice weather you can
gaze across to the peaks of Mount Pilatus and watch the
crowds parading along the lake shore. Apart from coﬀees,
deserts and champagne, César has a selection of wines,
some plentiful salads and other mains. Fondue at lunchtime
(Nov to Feb)QD-3, Haldenstrasse 4, uLuzernerhof, tel.
+41 41 410 25 23, www.cafecesar.ch. Open 08:00 22:00, Sun & Mon 08:00 - 18:00.
Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss
families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss
breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a
braid, and is served with butter, jams, honey, cheeses
or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety
of breads - rye bread, maize bread or potato-andwalnut bread to name just a few - which add to the
breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in
Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another breakfast
dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of
oat ﬂakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yoghurt
in the classic birchermüesli version. Many Swiss don’t
consider breakfast complete without one of the many
takes on the müesli-theme.
Here come our favourite breakfast places:
ART DECO HOTEL MONTANA, an elegant buﬀet
brunch option with an impressive range of hot and
cold dishes and all-you-can-eye views of the lake.
Sunday 11:00 - 15:00, 69Sfr, children under 12 pay 4Sfr/
year of age, see p. 42.
HEINI, one of Lucerne’s traditional bakery-cafés popular
with locals young and old, several set breakfasts and
additional options. Every day. See p. 35.
22 Lucerne In Your Pocket
Lucerne might be small, but as a cultural centre it
draws people from all over Central Switzerland. This means
it pulls far more weight than mere numbers would suggest.
Dozens of bars and clubs jostle for custom, meaning there’s
something for almost every taste. For high-end nightlife
head for the bars of the grand hotels, for the ﬂipside dive
into the vibrant student and alternative scene. You’ll also
ﬁnd pubs and casual bars, as well as live music venues and
large mainstream clubs. Check out our listings, and take
your pick. As many bars don’t take cards, it’s a good idea
to have cash handy!
Fancy a brioche with that coﬀee? They’ve got a choice at Alfred. PD
CAFÉ DE VILLE (SCHWANEN)
This classy French-inﬂuenced Art Déco café and restaurant
situated on the ﬁrst ﬂoor by Schwanenplatz on the lakeside,
provides a variety of international newspapers for guests
to enjoy. The high ceilinged rooms and parquet ﬂoors only
add to the charm. Take a look out the window and enjoy
the picture postcard views of Lake Lucerne, Mount Rigi and
the other Alpine foothills or on summer days sit out on the
terrace. It oﬀers business lunch menus during the week and
a fabulous Sunday buﬀet brunch which includes sashimi.
QC-3, Schwanenplatz 4, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41
410 11 77, www.cafedeville.ch. Open 07:00 - 19:30, Sat
07:00 - 18:30, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. €€.
This charming apartment style French café / apero bar is
a new addition to the increasingly lively Bruch quarter.
Old furniture and kitsch decor together with the warm
and friendly mother and daughter hosts, you will soon
feel welcome here. Depending on the hour, the coﬀee
is delicious as is the blue pastis aperitif. On Fridays
homemade couscous (beef or vegetarian) is served for
lunch from an Algerian family recipe.QA-4, Bruchstrasse
44, uHirzenhof, www.facebook.com/cafecassisluzern.
Open 07:30 - 20:00, Fri 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 20:00.
Closed Sun & Mon. NB
The Jazzkantine was opened as an initiative of the Lucerne
jazz school in 1997. Since then it has become a staple in the
old-town café scene. At street level it is a café and simple
restaurant with wooden furnishings in the style of a Dutch
brown cafe, in summer you can sit outside. Downstairs they
have a venue, used primarily for jazz concerts but also the
occasional performance or club night. It is popular among
locals, has a down-to-earth atmosphere and is renowned for
its ﬁne coﬀee.QB-3, Grabenstrasse 8, uSchwanenplatz,
tel. +41 41 410 73 73, www.jazzkantine.ch. Open 09:00
- 00:30. Closed Sun.
A small bar tucked away behind the Gewerbehalle oﬀ
Baselstrasse, an area which is slowly but surely developing
into the Lucerne oﬀbeat party mile. This small and cosy
bar has a kitsch ﬂair and hosts DJs and concerts on
Friday and Saturday nights whilst serving up old-world
cocktails. A smoking bar which can get lively at weekends.
QLädelistrasse 6, uGütsch, www.facebook.com/
BarBerlin. Open 18:00 - 00:30, Thu: 18:00 - 02:00, Fri &
Sat 18:00 - 03:30. Closed Sun. X
A Credit cards accepted
N No credit cards
X Smoker lounge
W Wi-ﬁ connection
u Nearest (trolley)bus stop A-1 Map coordinates
They serve vegetarian-focussed lunch menus and snacks
in the evening.QC-6, Bundesplatz 3, uBundesplatz, tel.
+41 41 210 21 50, www.meyerambundesplatz.ch. Open
08:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun and public holidays. BX
ST.MAGDALENA BAR AND RESTAURANT
Known as s’Magdi to locals, this is the oldest bar in Lucerne
and has been serving for over 200 years. Today it is still
very popular and oﬀers a restaurant bar upstairs, serving
Spanish and Mediterranean comfort food. It shows ﬁlms
on Monday nights and oﬀers a home to various exhibitions
by local artists. There is a smokers bar at street level, which
is famous for it’s carajillos (Spanish ﬂamed espresso with
schnapps).QB-3, Eisengasse 5-7, uSchwanenplatz,
tel. +41 41 410 42 78, www.magdalena.ch. Open 15:00
- 00:30, Thu 15:00 - 01:30, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 00:30. NKX
Bigger and...as good as ever: Meyer.Kulturbeiz in its new location. PD
With its red velvet curtains and gallery, Madeleine is little
piece of New York style in Lucerne, located in a former porn
cinema. They host occasional concerts / performances
and always have DJs on the weekend attracting a mixed
crowd. It usually gets pretty busy on weekends and
has separate non-smoking and smoking ﬂoors.QA-3,
Baselstrasse 15, uKasernenplatz, tel. +41 76 326 75 76,
www.lamadeleine.ch. Open Wed 20:00 - 00:30, Thu 20:00
- 02:30, Fri & Sat 20:00 - 04:00, closed Sun - Tue. NX
This bar recently moved to a new larger location. Decor
is modern yet cosy and candlelit and it oﬀers a platform
for Lucerne-based artists and musicians, through regular
exhibitions and a handful of performances and concerts
each month. Drinks are served from an island in the middle
of the room and smoking is allowed from 17:00 onwards.
LOUIS BAR (ART DECO HOTEL MONTANA)
The Louis is very much the grand hotel bar, with chandliers,
stucco-decorated ceilings, lots of ornate wood panelling,
a grand piano and a huge selection of over 130 whiskeys.
But the namesake trumpeter is no empty reference, as
there is live music, very often jazz, almost every day of
the week and jam sessions on Thursdays (admission free).
The adjacent Hemingway lounge is for smokers, as has
a selection of cigars and over 60 exquisite rums.QE-2,
Adligenswilerstrasse 22, uCasino-Palace, tel. +41 41
419 00 00, www.hotel-montana.ch/louis-bar. Open
17:00 - 00:30, Fri & Sat 17:00 - 02:00. AEX
GRAND CASINO LUZERN
250 slot machines with sky-high jackpots and the table
games American roulette, black jack, punto banco
and poker await you in the city’s very own casino. The
casino has a smokers’ section. To get access you need
to be at least 18 years old, well dressed (no sportswear)
and carry a valid passport or European ID.QD-2,
Haldenstrasse 6, uHaldensteig, tel. +41 41 418 56
56, www.grandcasinoluzern.ch. Open 12:00 - 04:00,
Fri & Sat 12:00 - 05:00, table games start 14:00.
Admission after 16:00: 10Sfr.
October 2014 - March 2015
The atmosphere in Lucerne is refreshingly open,
relaxed and queer-friendly for such a small city. In 2005
local citizens voted in favour of registered partnerships
for same sex-couples and in the weeks following the
referendum the city hosted the national Pride festival. It
is common to see same-sex couples holding hands and
showing aﬀection in public and the editor of one of the
main local newspapers identiﬁes as transgender and
is out and proud. Each November the weeklong Pink
Panorama ﬁlm festival, now in its 13th year, shows
LGBTQI ﬁlms from around the globe, alternative queer
platform kopfkino (www.kopfkino.ch) host parties in
Treibhaus, (next date: October 25) and there are biannual festivals hosted by QueerCH (www.facebook.
com/MenschCH) addressing taboo themes aﬀecting
the community. Winter festival: Febuary 7 and 8, 2015.
There are few queer bars as such in Lucerne, but regular
parties taking place at various locations around the city.
FRIGAY NIGHT (AT THE LOFT CLUB)
On the third Friday of every month, this popular
commercial monthly gay night is celebrating its 10-year
anniversary this year. House, chart, r’n’b and mashup
music keep the danceﬂoor full. There is a gallery above
if you are not in the mood for dancing. Drinks are fairly
expensive. The minimum age is 18 for men and 20 for
women.QD-2, Haldenstrasse 21, uLuzernerhof,
www.frigaynight.ch. Open 22:00 - 05:00. Admission
PINKPANORAMA FILM FESTIVAL (AT STATTKINO (BOURBAKI PANORAMA BUILDING))
The 13th edition of the PinkPanorama LGBTQI Film
Festival takes place from November 13 - 19, 2014. This
year the ﬁlm programme focus is based around Homoand Transphobia and mutual tolerance with a critical
look at intolerence within the LGBTQI community.
International ﬁlms are shown in their original language
with German subtitles. Each night during the ﬁlm
festival the Pink Bar is open at the same location and
becomes a popular gathering place, with diﬀerent local
organizations hosting the bar each night. The oﬃcial
ﬁlm festival party takes place on Saturday, November
15 (22:00 - 03.30) at the Jazzkantine in the old town,
a 10-minute walk from the cinema.QC-2, Löwenplatz
11, uLöwenplatz, www.pinkpanorama.ch.
A little bit chic, a little bit casual, this is a great place if
you are looking for a slightly older crowd (30+). It gets
lively after work and on weekends. The long room has a
tasteful wooden interior, dimmed lighting at night and is
connected to the Weisses Schloss restaurant next door. It
recently started serving Luzerner Bier on tap and has a good
24 Lucerne In Your Pocket
selection of wine and cocktails. There are occasional DJ sets
on the weekend, though as background music - this is more
of a bar for drinking and talking. They also serve brunches on
Sundays from 11:00.QB-5, Moosstrasse 7, uMoosegg,
tel. +41 41 227 00 00, www.weissesschloss.ch
/de/Nachbar. Open 07:00 - 00:30, Mon & Tue 07:00 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 00:30, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
A reﬂection of contemporary alternative culture in Lucerne,
Neubad is a bistro, bar, performance space, urban garden
and a coworking space for artists and creative industries. It is
housed in the former city swimming baths, made available
by the city council for at least until 2018. It oﬀers aﬀordable
and creative menus on weekday lunchtimes, international
homecooked food on Wednesday nights for just 10Sfr,
brunch on Sundays and a bar every night of the week
with local DJs playing Thu - Sat nights.QBireggstrasse 36,
uSteghof, www.neubad.org. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Thu Sat 09:00 - 00:30, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ENKW
PUBS & TAVERNS
A chatty place: the Nachbar.
SUITE (HOTEL MONOPOL)
Suite is a stylish bar overlooking the roofs of Lucerne. On
the top ﬂoor of the hotel Monopol, it has views of the lake
and the mountains. A youngish crowd comes here for the
regular house DJ sets, occasional live concerts and diligent
cocktail drinking - and they dress up before they come! The
Suite also has an ambitious bar menu with sushi, antipasti
and other ﬁngerfood (except Sun).QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 1,
uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 210 21 31, www.suite-lounge.ch.
Open Mon 17:00 - 23:30, Tue & Wed 17:00 - 00:30, Thu
17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:30, Sat 16:00 - 02:30, Sun
17:00 - 23:30. AEK
This popular wine bar, restaurant and café on Kornmarkt,
a pedestrianized square in the old town, is opposite the
town hall. The ground ﬂoor is long and narrow but more
outdoor seating is available on the square. On Fridays and
Saturdays you’ll see newly-weds celebrate as they leave the
registry oﬃce. Upstairs in this beautiful old building it is
more spacious and here you can drink or eat in the heart
of the old town. Ideal for an aperitif with tapas in the early
evening.QB-3, Kornmarkt 9, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41
41 410 60 20, www.storchenluzern.ch. Open 08:30 00:00, Mon & Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AB
Metzgerhalle, literally slaughterhouse, is the local punkrock-trash hangout, based in an old restaurant building with
a small beer garden out the back. Gigs, DJs and a buzzing
beer-slurping atmosphere will keep you entertained and
you will soon feel at home here in Lucerne’s alternative
scene.QA-4, Baselstrasse 1, uKasernenplatz,
www.metzgerhalleluzern.ch. Open 16:00 - late. Closed
Lucerne oﬀers all kind of live music: jazz, pop, rock,
metal, indie, gothic and much more. The clubs and
bars listed here focus on live music. Some only open for
concerts. For their daily programme, check the websites.
Apart from the listed venues, also check www.sedel.ch
and www.sudpol.ch, as well as the KKL which doesn’t
only host classical music events (www.kkl-luzern.ch).
An old wooden barn seven minutes’ walk from the
train station plays host to local bands and international
acts. Concerts take place upstairs, where wooden
beams cut across the ceiling. Downstairs there is
a bar with a popular salsa night on Thursdays and
DJs playing alternative styles on other nights.QC-6,
Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. +41 41 368
10 30, www.schuur.ch. EN
Treibhaus is a cultural centre, bar and live venue. It is in
part funded by the city to allow for young people to
get engaged and gather event-organizing experience.
The diverse gig program is primarily focussed on
alternative music featuring upcoming local, national and
international acts. Aside from events, the bistro bar is open
with regular lunch menus during the week and panini
in the evening and on weekends.QF-6, Spelteriniweg
4, uWeinbergli, www.treibhausluzern.ch. Open
11:30 - 14:00, 18.30 - 00:30, Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 02:30/04:00, Sat 18:30 - 02:30/04:00, closed Sun & Mon.
ALPINEUM KAFFEEHAUS BAR
Located just metres from the famous Lion Monument, this
relatively new addition to the Lucerne bar scene feels like it
has been around for years. The interior has natural elements
like a stone brick wall but with a modern design and oﬀers
both indoor and outdoor seating. It serves drinks in the
evening and coﬀee and creative lunch menus during the
day and is packed with a young alternative / hipster crowd
of Lucerne creative types.QC-2, Denkmalstrasse 11,
uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 77 424 90 98, www.facebook.
com/alpineum. Open 08:00 - 00:30, Sat 09:00 - 00:30, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. NBKX
LIVE MUSIC VENUES
Classical dancing has its aﬃcionados in Lucerne, though
they may not always be so easy to ﬁnd. The venues and
events we list below should give you a head start. For
tango events also check the website www.luzdetango.ch
and click on ‘Tango Agenda’ and then ‘Tango Kalender’
(in German, but quite comprehensible).
Jostling for a drink at Bar 59.
This relaxed bar goes club in the industrial part of town
has two similar sized rooms. The ﬁrst has a big bar in the
middle of the room and usually has no cover charge.
The second room, the ‘club’ is used more for concerts
and DJs (admission 5-20Sfr). The programme varies by
weekdays, it could be salsa, hip hop, funk, afro, electro,
rock or an open mic night.QC-6, Industriestrasse 5,
uBrünigstrasse, tel. +41 41 360 52 00, www.bar59.ch.
Open Tue 20:00 - 00:30, Wed - Thu 20:00 - 02:30, Fri &
Sat 20:00 - 04:00, closed Sun & Mon. Admission bar free
of charge. EN
Every Tuesday, Bar 59 becomes the sizzling centre of
the local salsa scene. The DJs play salsa and Latino,
and there is also a dancing instructor for beginners.
QC-6, Bar 59, Industriestrasse 5, uBrünigstrasse,
www.bar59.ch. Every Tue from 20:30.
This tango school oﬀers courses during the week, but
Friday nights are milonga practica. Great, if all you want to
do is dance!QA-3, St. Karlistrasse 4, uBrüggligasse,
tel. +41 78 765 58 80, www.tangostudio.ch. Every
Friday 20:45 - 01:00. Admission 10/5 Sfr.
October 2014 - March 2015
Swiss laws are quite liberal in regard to the sex business:
prostitution is legal, both on the streets and in brothels
and similar establishments. Both are regulated however,
and street prostitution particularly is only legal in very
few areas. In Lucerne you’ll ﬁnd strip clubs - usually
called nightclubs or cabarets - in the centre as well as in
the hotspot around Baselstrasse. What you can expect
there are expensive drinks (approx. 20Sfr for a beer) and
shows with half-naked ladies dancing on a pole until
they are entirely naked. In contact bars you can meet a
prostitute and accompany her to a room nearby, where
as in brothels, sex and sauna clubs the oﬀer is even more
direct. Most of these establishments are concentrated
in the area around Baselstrasse and Bernstrasse. This
somewhat shabby corner of town does not have the
best reputation but it can’t be called dangerous.
As in other places, many prostitutes work because they
have few other income options or, even worse, because
they are forced to. Street prostitutes are particularly
likely to be victims of human traﬃcking.
This strip club is located on the river front, but in here
you’ll be looking for another kind of natural beauty.
Ring the doorbell for entry.QB-4, Unter der Egg 10a,
uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 15 05. Open
20:00 - 04:00, closed Sun.
When things get going at this strip club in the old
town, the small stage is the centre of attention. Sit back
on one of the easy chairs or at the bar. You can also
have private entertainment in a private compartment.
QB-3, Rössligasse 2, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41
410 30 14. Open 20:00 - 04:00.
DAS SCHWARZE SCHAF / DAS WEISSE SCHAF
At ground level you will ﬁnd the bar das weisse Schaf, which
translates as white sheep and opens earlier for pre-dancing
drinks and cocktails and oﬀers free Wi-ﬁ. Downstairs the black
sheep, das schwarze Schaf dancing bar, plays commercial
pop and club hits. Incidentally, the bars are not linked to the
conservative Swiss People’s Party notorious black and white
sheep poster campaign, referring to non-Swiss and Swiss
citizens.QC-4, Frankenstrasse 2, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41
210 43 35, www.dasschwarzeschaf.ch. Das weisse Schaf:
open from 17:00, Fri & Sat from 16:00. Closed Sun. Das
schwarze Schaf: Thu, Fri & Sat only 22:00 - 04:00. AW
Embedded within the Neo-Baroque lakeside Grand Casino
building (entrance on the roadside of the building), Casineum
is made up of three diﬀerent spaces. The main hall, the gallery
26 Lucerne In Your Pocket
overlooking the main hall and the more minimalist club room.
The programme includes jazz concerts and improvisation
theatre battles in the early evening and club nights later on
the weekends. It is possible to reserve space in the lounge /
gallery for you and your friends via the website (based on a
minimum consumption), this will save you from having to
queue outside.QD-2, Haldenstrasse 6, uCasino, www.
casineum.ch. Open Fri & Sat 22:00/23:00 - 04:00, occasionally
parties on Thu & Sun. Admission 15 - 25 Sfr. AE
Lucerne holds a whole hand of trump cards, the truly
stunning natural setting, the intact historical old town,
an impressive number of absorbing museums and the
aura of nearly two hundred years as a world-renowned
destination. You’ll ﬁnd all the classics and our favourites
in the listings. Admission to many places is free, if it does
cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced price,
usually the children’s fee, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Note that museums
are usually closed on Mondays.
Klub Kegelbahn is the newest addition to Lucerne’s
clubbing landscape and part of the new party mile
between Kasernenplatz along Baselstrasse to Kreuzstutz.
The former bowling hall is now a meeting place for music
lovers. The club owner likes good music, whether it be
jazz, northern soul, dub or electronic beats. Check the
website for the latest happenings.QA-3, Baselstrasse 24,
uGütsch, www.klubkegelbahn.ch. Open Thu 22:00 late, Fri & Sat 23:00 - late.
The roadhouse is a big club right in the centre of town, just
across from the railway station, with three ﬂoors and DJs
every night of the week. With their extremely long opening
hours, this is a pit stop for all those who don’t want to go
home yet - or who want to start early. You can count on
the weekly programme here, with beer pong on Tuesdays
or after-shopping apero on Saturdays, apart from one-oﬀ
seasonal events.QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel.
+41 41 220 27 27, www.roadhouse.ch. Open 07:00 - 04:00,
Fri 07:00 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 09:00 - 04:00.
The party in full swing at Roadhouse club.
Lucerne’s main sights are heavily marketed and known around
the world - but still worth the visit. They range from the mediaeval
bridges and fortiﬁcations, the 19th-century attractions around
the Lion Monument to the 21st-century landmark of the KKL.
You’ll ﬁnd museums in our museum section.
Beautifully located right on the river Reuss, the Jesuitenkirche
or Jesuit church St. Franz Xaver is one of the most
magniﬁcent Baroque churches in Switzerland. While it is very
pleasing from the exterior, with the river promenade in front
, the rich, unscathed interior in pinks and whites is what can
really take your breath away. Completed in 1677, the two
towers were added in 1893.QB-4, Bahnhofstrasse 11a,
Open 06:00 - 18:30, Mon & Thu 09:30 - 18:30.
KAPELLBRÜCKE (CHAPEL BRIDGE)
Lucerne’s most famous landmark is certainly the Chapel
Bridge, which stretches across the entrance to the river Reuss
(over nearly 203 metres) in a peculiar diagonal direction.
Built in 1365 as part of Lucerne’s fortiﬁcations, it is the oldest
covered wooden bridge still standing in Europe. Part of its
fame is due to the originally more than 150 triangular paintings
positioned inside the bridge in the gabels. The paintings date
from the 17th century and show scenes from Lucerne’s and
Switzerland’s history, and they can be seen as a mass media
of the time, used to advocate allegiance to Catholicism
during the Counter-Reformation. In 1993 a ﬁre destroyed a
large part of the bridge (towards the centre) including 78 of
the paintings. When you walk across the bridge you will see
burned, blackened paintings on either end which mark the
point where the restored parts begin.QB-4, uBahnhof.
The landmark you can’t miss: the Chapel bridge. iStock.com/rilcombs
LÖWENDENKMAL (LION MONUMENT)
While it is famous today, the Lion Monument enjoyed huge
fame in the 19th century and harks back to a very diﬀerent
era, when nation states were just emerging in Europe.
The stone sculpture dates from 1821 and was created by
Lukas Ahorn to a design by Berthel Thowaldsen. It shows
a dying lion, in an allegory for over eight hundred Swiss
mercenaries who died in service in 1792. They belonged to
the Swiss regiment which served French king Louis XVI, and
were defending the Tuileries in Paris where the French royal
family were living during the French revolution against
revolutionaries. The royal family had long since ﬂed, so
the mercenaries were defending an empty palace.QC-1,
Denkmalstrasse 4, uLöwenplatz. Admission free.
MUSEUMS FOR LESS
LUCERNE MUSEUM CARD
The museum card is a great deal, giving you free access
to 9 museums in Lucerne (and 2 in neighbouring
Kriens) on two days. You’re already saving money if you
just go to three museums, and if one is the transport
museum, you’re saving money from the word go. If you
want to do the classic one-day 19th-century tour - Lion
Monument, Gletschergarten, Alpineum and Bourbaki
Panorama - the card is a must. For children, the saving
is not so great and not necessarily worth it.QC-4,
Tourist information, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof,
www.lucerne.com. 32Sfr / person. Available only at
the tourist information at the main train station.
Located at the far end of and in the same building as the
Radisson Blu hotel, this is by no means an old-style hotel
nightclub. The club consists of two rooms connected with
each other by a tunnel. The ﬁrst room has more of a bar
feel, although alternating DJs perform here as well as in the
clubroom at the far end of the tunnel, which has a more
industrial feel. The focus is on cutting-edge electronica
music with both local and international DJs keeping the
punters dancing through the night.QD-5, Inseliquai 12c,
uBahnhof, www.tunnelclub.ch. Open Fri and Sat from
Unique experiences on Lake Lucerne.
Lake Lucerne Navigation Company
Information and booking: phone 041 367 67 67 or www.Iakelucerne.ch
October 2014 - March 2015
Lake Lucerne is one of the things that make Lucerne
so exceptional. A walk along the shores is part of life in
Lucerne, and the promenade along Schweizerhofquai
and Nationalquai with the long double row of chestnut
trees is the classical choice. But you can also go south
from the KKL, towards the large lake-side park and
bathing spot Ufschötti (15 min walk) or even further to
the Richard Wagner Museum.
The lake also gives you access to a vast area ﬁlled to the
brim with Alpine beauties. On a nice sunny day nothing
can beat a cruise on the lake, whether you stay close to
Lucerne or steam south towards the Alps. Due to the
labyrinthine shape of the lake, new breathtaking vistas
open up again and again.
The long cruise down to Flüelen e.g. will take you to
the Rütli and past the Tellsplatte, both involved in
Switzerland’s founding myths. In German the lake is
called Vierwaldstättersee, literally the lake of the four
cantons, which refers to Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden and
Lucerne. Barring Lucerne, these cantons are considered
to be the birthplace of Switzerland and the William Tell
saga plays in these mountain areas.
LAKE LUCERNE CRUISES
The Lake Lucerne navigation company operates a ﬂeet
of over 20 passenger ships on the lake, from the paddle
steamer Uri launched in 1901 to the sleek high-tech
cruiser Saphir which dates from 2012. You can catch
a ship for the 10-minute hop across to the Transport
Museum, or spend up to 5.5h on a roundtrip cruise to
Flüelen and back. Boats leave regularly from the piers
around the KKL or from the piers on Schweizerhofquai
even in winter. Snacks and drinks are available from
the bar on almost all connections (except the very
earliest), and on many the restaurant oﬀers full meals.
QC-4, Bahnhofplatz, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 367
67 67, www.lakelucerne.ch. Opening hours of the
ticket office across from the railway station: 08:30 12:00, 12:50 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00, 12:50 - 16:00,
Sun 08:30 - 12:00, 12:50 - 15:00. Adult fares, oneway, second-class are between 5.60Sfr and 45Sfr,
depending on distance.
28 Lucerne In Your Pocket
(KULTUR- UND KONGRESSZENTRUM LUZERN)
The striking KKL with its huge overhanging roof and
its position right on the lake rivals even the Chapel
Bridge as Lucerne’s major landmark. The concert and
conference centre was completed in the year 2000,
built to plans of Parisian architect Jean Nouvel. Its
centrepiece is the concert hall with nearly 2000 seats
which is used mostly for classical concerts. With walls
clad in wood and white plaster reliefs it is known as
the Salle Blanche (white hall) and has extraordinary
acoustics thanks to acoustics engineer Russell Johnson.
The KKL also houses other event halls, conference
facilities and the Kunstmuseum art museum. It also
has several culinary options, the top-end restaurant
Red, the self-service World Café and the elegant
Seebar. The KKL is home to the world-renowned
classic music festival the Lucerne Festival.QC-4,
Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, www.kkl-luzern.ch.
Guided tours on most weekends (either Sat or Sun)
11:00, reservations +41 41 226 74 33, 15/9Sfr.
Gletschergarten means glacier garden, and this Lucerne
institution consists of three elements: a geological site
formed by a glacier, a museum next door and a mirror maze
dating from 1896. The geological site is a set of deep funnels
and channels worn into the bedrock by the glacier that once
covered this area. Walk along the footbridges and read how
these formations came into existence. The museum is housed
in a building with Baroque, Renaissance and Biedermeier
rooms, which are exquisite but not tied into a larger concept.
The mirror maze ﬁnally is pure and simple 19th-century fairground fun.QC-1, Denkmalstrasse 4, uLöwenplatz, tel.
+41 41 410 43 40, www.gletschergarten.ch. Open daily
09:00 - 18:00, Nov - Mar 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 15/8Sfr.
This art collection concentrates on two very diﬀerent
ﬁgureheads of classical modernism: exuberant Pablo
Picasso (1881 - 1973) and quiet, intense Paul Klee (1879 1940). The basement is entirely dedicated to Klee’s mostly
small-scale, delicate works, while the ground ﬂoor houses
a collection of Picassos from all periods of his work. Angela
Rosengart is the founder of the museum and, like her father
art dealer Siegfried Rosengart, she had a long and deep
friendship with Picasso. A gem among Lucerne’s museums.
QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 10, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 220 16
60, www.rosengart.ch. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00, Nov Mar 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 18/10Sfr.
GUIDED TITLIS TOUR
A bus takes you to Engelberg from where a cable car
connection - with a revolving cable car on the last
section - gets you up to Mount Titlis, towering more than
3000m asl in the eternal snow. The view of the Swiss
Alps up here is breathtaking (weather permitting)! You
can visit the ice grotto, cross the ‘cliﬀ walk’ suspension
bridge or visit the glacier park where you can sledge all
year round. The tour is with a multi-lingual guide.QC-4,
Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. +41 44 710 50 50,
www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily 12:30 in front
of the tourist information at the train station. Book
in advance by phone or on their website. No tours
November 3 - 14, 2014. 129/64.50Sfr.
LUCERNE TOURISM CITY TOURS
On this walking tour, a guide takes you round all of
Lucerne’s major sights giving you historical and anecdotal
background. You’ll see places like the Chapel Bridge or the
KKL, as well as some more hidden corners. Reservations are
not needed, just turn up at the tourist information before
09:45 and pay on site. In English and German. Ask for
other languages, group tours in other languages available.
QC-4, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 227 17
17, www.luzern.com. Daily 09:45, duration approx. 2h.
From Nov - March only Wed, Sat & Sun. 18/5Sfr.
The KKL, the masterpiece by French architect Jean Nouvel. KKL Luzern
FORUM SCHWEIZER GESCHICHTE SCHWYZ
(FORUM OF SWISS HISTORY)
Forum Schwyz is a historical museum housed in a
former granary in the little town of Schwyz whose
historical centre is worth a visit in itself. The museum’s
main exhibition focusses on the early history of the
Swiss confederation, using very up-to-date exhibition
techniques. Forum Schwyz also hosts temporary
exhibitions on historical and cultural topics. You can
get to Schwyz by train in under an hour, then take a bus
to Schwyz, Post from where it’s a few minutes’ walk. If
you want to make a day of it, consider going by ship:
it’s nearly 2h to Brunnen and from there 5 min by train
to Schwyz. Audio guides in English, French and Italian.
QZeughausstrasse 5, Schwyz, tel. +41 41 819 60
11, www.nationalmuseum.ch/schwyz. Open 10:00 17:00, closed Mon. 10/8Sfr, children up to 16 free.
October 2014 - March 2015
Bridge (as well as on two other bridges). The depictions of
the life of saints Leodegar and Mauritius could be read like
comics by the mostly illiterate population, and the more
than 200 scenes must have made a huge impact in this
world with so few images.
You can just admire the mountains round Lucerne from
afar, but you can do much more than that. Many are easily
accessible, and the views up there are something else! We
only list the classics Pilatus and Rigi here but check the
‘Winter joys’ chapter (p. 40) for several other good options,
many just as close by.
M ün z g .
Thea t e
Je s u
U ntE gg
öss Weinpl. R
Gren d el
Le de ergasse
s t r.
ab g a
W Schlogs .
M use rass e
30 Lucerne In Your Pocket
with Sw iss Pa
Except in the very worst of weather you’ll see Mount Pilatus’
imposing peaks from almost anywhere in Lucerne. At 2132
metres asl it is the highest and most rugged of Lucerne’s
three local mountains. With several restaurants, a hotel and
sledging in winter and hiking, rock-climbing, a rope park
and a toboggan run in summer there are plenty of options.
Until Nov 16 you can reach Pilatus by the world’s steepest
cog railway from Alpnachstad. As the cable car from Kriens
/ Fräkmüntegg is being completely refurbished this winter,
after Nov 16 it is not possible to reach Mount Pilatus. Only
the ﬁrst section from Kriens to Fräkmüntegg will run year
round (sledging possible).Qfrom Alpnachstad or Kriens
(Schlossweg 1), tel. +41 41 329 11 11, www.pilatus.ch.
Cable car from Fräkmüntegg (Kriens) closed until spring
2015, cogwheel train from Alpnachstad runs until Nov
16, 2015. After Nov 16 no train or cable car until spring
2015 due to works.
in F g.
A nicer kind of commuting: sledgers on their way up Mount Rigi. PD
Stif t s t
Now we turn around and head for Chapel Bridge (p. 27),
passing by Haus Zurgilgen with its round tower built in
1510 and the 18th century St. Peter’s Chapel behind it
which gave the Chapel Bridge its name. Built in 1365,
the bridge originally served as part of Lucerne’s defence
line and, well, to get across the river. Changes in warfare
soon made the defence function obsolete, but then the
bridge was used for defence from another threat:
Protestantism. While nearby places like Zurich had turned
Protestant, Lucerne’s authorities were strictly Catholic. To
make sure the town’s people stuck with the old faith they
commissioned the triangular paintings on the Chapel
Our old-town stroll starts on Gerbergasse, just next to
the bus stop Schwanenplatz. Look out onto the lake with
the old town behind you: until 1852 you would have been
standing at the water’s edge here, as the land in front of you
including where Hotel Schweizerhof (p. 42) stands was
then ﬁlled up to create the lake promenade.
Mt. Rigi Peninsula
Continuing along the river bank we take the Reussbrücke
across into the old town’s narrow alleys again. The second on
the right is Weinmarkt which soon widens out onto a
town square lined by handsome town houses, many of
which have painted façades. One ﬁne example is the
Zunfthaus zur Metzgern on the right (Weinmarkt 3), once the
guild house of the butchers. Exiting Weinmarkt straight
ahead on the right you’ll ﬁnd yourself on Kornmarkt with the
sturdy red-roofed tower of the town-hall or Rathaus,
completed in 1606. The cellars of the Rathaus harbour the
beerhall of the same name – if you fancy a break now. Our
stroll now procedes from Kornmarkt away from the river
along Werchlaubengässli, then right and immediately left
into Mariahilfgasse, passing the Jazzkantine (p. 22). Our next
and ﬁnal destination is the Museggmauer, the town wall. At
the end of Mariahilfgasse take a right, and walk along
Museggstrasse until you see the Mariahilf church on your
right. To the left you can now take a footpath up to the
Schirmerturm, a tower in the Musegg wall. Climb the
tower (April - October 08:00 - 19:00) and you’ll get a great view
out to Lucerne’s hinterland and over the town – old and new.
Tue – Sun, 10 –17 h
The elaborate façade of Hotel des Balances on Weinmarkt.
Mount Rigi (from regina, Latin for queen) is famous for
spectacular views of the Alps and the easy access. The
majestic mountain lies between Lake Lucerne, Lake Zug and
Lake Lauerz. The cogwheel railway leaving from Vitznau was
Europe’s ﬁrst mountain railway. At the top there are several
restaurants and around 35 kilometres of winter hiking trails.
You can also ski and sledge up there - they have around
10 kilometres of slopes, 4 skilifts and a rental shop. You can
descend by a diﬀerent route with the aerial cable car from
Rigi Kaltbad to Weggis and make it a round trip, by boat
from Lucerne to Vitznau and return from Weggis.The train
and bus connection to Vitznau takes about 1 hour, by ship
it’s just as fast.Qfrom Vitznau, Weggis or Arth-Goldau,
www.rigi.ch. Return ticket 68/34Sfr.
On the other shore of the Reuss our stroll goes right, along
the river past Lucerne’s theatre built in 1839. If you look
across the river you’ll get a good view of the Rathaus, the
town-hall, on the other side. A few steps further along is the
Jesuit church St. Franz Xaver (p. 27), a magniﬁcent
example of Swiss Baroque architecture.
October 2014 - March 2015
Lucerne for kids
When it comes to holidays, children’s priorities are a
bit diﬀerent from those of their elders. Luckily, Lucerne has
plenty to oﬀer for the younger generations, from outdoor
activities to interactive museums.
What better place to live out memories of Charlie and the
Chocolate Factory than in Switzerland, home of some of
the ﬁnest chocolate in the world. Aeschbachs Chocowelt
oﬀers you the opportunity to do just that in a modern
and interactive environment. Here you can learn about
the history, watch chocolate being made (weekdays only),
taste diﬀerent samples and then even make and decorate
your own too. You can book online or by phone. Take the
S-bahn N°1 from Lucerne main train station to Root D4 (10
minutes).QChocoDromo 1a, Hochschwerzlen, Root, tel.
+41 41 747 33 33, www.aeschbach-chocolatier.ch. Open
09:00 - 18.00, Sat & Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Admission: 15Sfr
for adults (incl. a 5Sfr voucher to use in the shop), 8Sfr for
children over 6, children under 6 free. 10Sfr supplement
if you would like to make and decorate your own 200g
bar of chocolate to take home.
SHOPS & CAFÉS
If you’re looking for children’s clothes or toys, check
the major department stores and our listings below.
Two cafés where you will feel welcome with a pram or
pushchair and a toddler or two are Bourbaki (p. 14) and
Neubad (p. 25).
PUMPELS BABY & MAMA
Pumpels is a small shop with a colourful collection of
babies’ and children’s clothes. Their real speciality is
cool clothes for your pregnancy.QB-4, Theaterstrasse
13, uKantonalbank, tel. +41 41 210 07 21,
www.pumpels.ch. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 18:30,
Wed 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.
Spielkiste, literally a box of playthings, is a wellstocked toy shop. Whether you’re looking for soft toys,
lego and similar, board games, model kits or outdoor
stuﬀ like balls or wooden stilts, you’ll ﬁnd it here. As
well as baby toys and costumes during the carnival
season.QB-4, Seidenhofstrasse 10, uBahnhof, tel.
+41 41 210 05 80, www.spielkiste.ch. Open 09:00
- 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun
TRANSPORT MUSEUM (VERKEHRSHAUS)
The transport museum is one of the great classics for
outings in Switzerland. Children all over the country long to
go here. And no surprise, with a huge collection of vehicles,
the Imax 3D cinema and loads of interactive exhibits. Just
recently a huge section about chocolate and where it comes
from has opened.QLidostrasse 5, uVerkehrshaus, tel.
+41 41 370 44 44, www.verkehrshaus.ch. Open 10:00 17:00, 30/15Sfr.
Is that the armour talking? The historical museum.
The historical museum of Lucerne calls itself depot, and
that’s what it looks like: a storage house chock-a-block
with historic artefacts from tiny needles to huge pieces
of sculpture. But there is help! Every object has a bar code
which you can scan with the hand-held scanner you get.
It then tells you about the object on the display, in English
or German. But much better than that is the children’s
quiz - lots of kids love following the story the quiz tells,
running up and down the four ﬂoors looking for the
objects the scanner points them to. They can choose from
several diﬀerent themes, and there is even a prize!QA-4,
Pfistergasse 24, uKasernenplatz, tel. +41 41 228 54 24,
www.historischesmuseum.lu.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00,
closed Mon except on official holidays. 10/5Sfr, children
under 6 free.
32 Lucerne In Your Pocket
PARKS & SPORTS
Walking around museums is alright, but kids need room
to run and romp sometimes. Lucerne has a few parks and
playgrounds which are just right for this.
Meggenhorn Castle - inspired by Châteaux Chambord
in the Loire Valley - and the surrounding gardens are
positioned on a small peninsula just outside of Lucerne.
It’s a popular spot for picnicking (including a covered area)
with a large adventure playground and farm animals for
kids, all free of charge. It is possible to tour the castle on
Sundays, check the website for more information. Boats
leave Lucerne main station frequently for Meggenhorn,
alternatively jump on bus N°24 or 25 (15 min). From the bus
stop Lerchenbühl it is a short walk to the entrance of the
park (5 min) and to the castle (15 min). The path is paved
and push chair / wheelchair friendly.QMeggenhorn,
For a town which is - after all - not very big, Lucerne has
a surprisingly wide range of shopping options. If you’re
buying watches, Lucerne can match or even top most
larger destinations (see chapter Watches & Jewellery p.37).
But there is also an impressive range of fashion boutiques,
some well stocked with the international luxury brands,
while others focus on lesser known, carefully chosen Swiss
and international designers. Being Switzerland, chocolates
and other ﬁne food products are well represented too.
BOOKS & MUSIC
Apparently the largest book shop in central Switzerland,
Stocker just oﬀ Schwanenplatz stocks mainly German books,
but it has a small selection of English language literature,
as well as maps, toys and some stationery supplies.QC-3,
Hertensteinstrasse 44, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41
417 25 25, www.buchhaus.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu &
Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.
The two major shopping areas are in the old town between
Schwanenplatz on the lake and Mühleplatz to the west
(B/C-3), and in the Neustadt (the ‘new town’) between the
railway station and Hirschengraben street (A/B/C-4).
One of the few remaining hat makers in Switzerland,
Caroline Felber makes hats for all ages and occasions
and is usually in the shop happily sharing her knowledge
and experience and oﬀering customers attentive service.
She also trains apprentices to ensure that the art of hat
making continues into the future.QB-5, Moosstrasse 1,
uMoosstrasse, tel. +41 41 210 53 63, www.huete.ch.
Open 09:30 - 12:30, 13:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00,
closed Sun & Mon.
SCHAURAUM NINA STAEHLI
Local artist Nina Staehli has built up an extensive collection of
works in sculpture, painting, photography and performance
over the past twenty years. Following projects in Switzerland,
Austria, Germany and Italy, she is as active as ever currently
working on her Trail of Tears project in the USA about the
forced relocation of Native American nations. She recently
took the decision to take control of all commercial processes
involving her art and opened this gallery, alongside her
studios in Lucerne, Zug and Berlin. Postcards, books, posters,
sculptures, paintings and photography are sold here with
prices ranging from 2 to 9500Sfr.QA-4, Gibraltarstrasse 9,
uZähringerstrasse, www.ninastaehli.ch. Open Sat 10:00
- 16:00 and by appointment.
Most shops in the centre of Lucerne are open Mon Fri 08:30 - 18:30, ‘late-night shopping’ is until 21:00
on Thu and Fri, though not all shops participate.
On Saturdays most shops open 09:00 - 16:00. On
Sundays shops are generally closed, though there
are exceptions for bakers, some jewellers, souvenir
shops and others, and everything at the train station.
Opening times are often shorter - or shops closed
altogether - on oﬃcial holidays, check p. 9.
The old town has lots of shopping - and a few bargains too!
YOUNG DESIGNERS MARKET
Young Designers Market oﬀers both a marketing platform
and shop space for young designers to sell their products.
The shop displays products from over 50 upcoming
young designers, many of which are handmade with
a focus on fair and sustainable production. There has
been much discussion in Switzerland in recent times
recognizing creative industries as a valuable driving force
for the Swiss economy.QB-5, Moosstrasse 1 (entrance
on Obergrundsstrasse) , uMoosegg, tel. +41 77 220
20 02 , www.youngdesignersmarket.ch. Open 10:00 13:00, 14:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, closed Sun & Mon.
Globus is a high-end department store near the train
station: on four levels you can ﬁnd beauty products, the
latest fashion from brands like Esprit, Marc O’Polo, Strellson
and Dockers, shoes, watches, jewellery, travel bags, lingerie
and much more. After strolling through take a break in
the pleasant restaurant on the third ﬂoor or get a drink at
the bar in the delicatessen department in the basement.
QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 4, uBahnhof, tel. +41 58 578 55
55, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.
October 2014 - March 2015
Well, they specialise in
casual, but it’s casual with
style, we’d say. You’ll also
ﬁnd the accessories and
shoes of this company with
Swedish roots. The Lucerne
store features all their latest
collections for women - be
it trousers, blouses, jackets or coats and more.QB-3,
Weinmarkt 6, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 410 84 00,
www.marc-o-polo.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Thu 09:30
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.
Manor is a stylish department store with a touch of
Italian ﬂair. It specialises in young and casual fashion and
mainly sells its own brands - though it has something for
everyone’s needs. Besides that there are departments for
beauty, sports, household and home electronics. And last
but not least a very good self-service restaurant on the top
ﬂoor.QB-3, Weggisgasse 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41
41 419 76 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu &
Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.
Go on! Try something on! At Companys for instance.
This luxury boutique on the quayside stocks internationally
renowned brands such as Valentino, Moschino, See by
Chloé, Kristensen du Nord, Hache, accessories by Rada,
Gem Kingdom and hosiery by Fogal to mention just a few.
The boutique has the feeling of an apartment featuring
a winding staircase and upholstered furnishings, with
a separate room to try on your items of interest.QC-3,
Schweizerhofquai 4, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410
81 01, www.comme-ca.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Mon
13:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.
Located next to the river, Companys is a European chain
clothing store for men and women and stocks various
international brands including InWear, Part Two, Designers
Remix, Soaked in Luxury and Saint Tropez. It specializes
in leading Scandinavian labels e.g. Tiger of Sweden
34 Lucerne In Your Pocket
and has a shoe outlet across the road called Colonys.
QB-4, Reusssteg 3, uHirzenhof, tel. +41 41 229 60 10,
www.companys.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.
This multi-brand fashion store, located between the lion
monument and the old town, oﬀers young contemporary
designer clothes, accessories and shoes at aﬀordable prices.
It features established Northern European brands such as
Dr. Martens and French Connection, up-and-coming local
brands like The Straight and Narrow together with the
organic fair-trade labels Knowledge Cotton Apparel and
Armed Angels. When shopping here you would be forgiven
for thinking you are in London, New York or Berlin.QC-2,
Alpenstrasse 7, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 05
09, www.derfruehling.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.
One of the more upmarket addresses in town, Grieder has
a selection of prêt-à-porter from the major luxury couture
houses, as well as slightly more aﬀordable fashion and their
own in-house brand. Dior, Valentino, Armani or Balenciaga
are all represented. Apart from clothes they stock shoes,
bags and accessories, only for women at this location.
QC-3, Kapellplatz 1, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 44 224
63 06, www.bongenie-grieder.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30,
Sat 09:00 -16:00, closed Sun.
Guess has its own ﬂagship store in Lucerne. Close to
Löwenplatz, they display the Guess and Guess by Marciano
collections, for both men and women: jeans, garments,
shoes, accessories like sunglasses, watches, jewellery, lingerie
and perfume - the full range of Guess goods is on show and
on sale.QC-2, Hertensteinstrasse 6, uLöwenplatz, tel.
+41 41 410 31 49, www.guess.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30,
Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
TAX FREE SHOPPING
As a foreign resident you are entitled
to a refund when making purchases
for more than 300Sfr (including
VAT), provided the goods leave the
country within 30 days. You will get
back the VAT, which in Switzerland is
only 8% - minus a handling fee. It’s as
easy as this: watch out for the Global
Blue - Tax Free sign. When paying, ask for a tax refund
form. When leaving Switzerland, present your purchases,
receipts and passport to Swiss customs oﬃcials. They
will stamp your tax refund form. To claim an immediate
refund, present your stamped tax refund form at a Global
Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around
Europe). For more infos see www.global-blue.com.
Warm, resolute Daniela Ruckstuhl draws on 25 years of
experience in the fashion business, and the selection
in her small boutique for women reﬂects that. Her Swiss
designers include Ida Gut and newcomer Enjey for fashion
and Lucerne local Apero for jewellery in gold and carbon.
QA-4, Pfistergasse 15, uKasernenplatz, tel. +41 41
240 48 78. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00
- 16:00, Sun closed.
Local confectioner N°1 Bachmann has a wide range of
chocolates, confectionery and cakes like the traditional
Lucerne gingerbread cake. It’s also a bakery, with fresh bread
and sandwiches and soups to go. This shop has an extra
wide selection of chocolates - more than 50 diﬀerent kinds
of pralines and chocolates! Many other stores throughout
town.QC-3, Schwanenplatz 7, uSchwanenplatz, tel.
+41 41 410 91 44, www.confiserie.ch. Open 07:00 19:00, Thu 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:30 18:00.
CASAGRANDE GIFT SHOP
Casagrande, conveniently located on Schwanenplatz
between the lake and the old town, stocks a large range
of Swiss souvenirs including cuckoo clocks, Swiss army
knives (free engraving with purchase), many watches,
clothing, chocolate and much more over three ﬂoors.
They also oﬀer longer opening hours compared to
most shops in the city and shipping options.QC-3,
Grendel 6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 418 60 60,
www.casagrande.ch. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00
- 19:30, Nov - March 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:30,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
This small, sleek boutique in contemporary design just next
to Hotel Schweizerhof sells chocolates, pralines and small
cakes of outstanding quality.QC-3, Schweizerhofquai
2, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 418 70 90,
www.maxchocolatier.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon
13:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.
This friendly urban sports shop specializing in winter
sports, surf and skater equipment and streetwear fashion
started up in 1994 and is located 200 metres from the Lion
Monument just oﬀ the main shopping street. It oﬀers a
large selection of brands such as Burton, Roxy, Volcom and
Vans. Staﬀ are helpful in answering questions you may have.
QC-2, Töpferstrasse 3, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410
77 11, www.doodah.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.
Spoilt for choice at Bachmann.
FINE & MORE
Here you might ﬁnd the perfect gift for your food or drink
connoisseur friends. Fine & More deals with bottles of every
kind - and their precious contents. They sell spirits such as
whiskeys, fruit brandies, cognacs and liqueurs as well as olive
oils, nut oils and ﬁne vinegars such as select balsamicos. You
can also have a taster of most of these luxury liquids!QC-2,
Alpenstrasse 5, uLuzernerhof, tel. + 41 41 410 38 00,
www.fineandmore.ch. Open 12:30 - 18:30, Fri 10:00 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun & Mon.
Heini has been supplying Lucerne with bread, cakes and
chocolate creations for more than ﬁfty years. If you’re
looking for pralines, their rägetröpﬂi or rain drops are a
good choice - they’re ﬁlled with cherry brandy, not rain. The
spacious café at this location is a good place for breakfast
or coﬀee and cakes.QB-3, Hertensteinstrasse 66,
uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 412 20 20, www.heini.ch.
Open 07:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
Swiss producer Mammut has been making ropes for
decades, but now has a whole range of trekking and
mountaineering equipment. On three stories you
can browse through shoes, backpacks, sleeping bags,
climbing gear and fashionable clothing for outdoor
sports and outdoor use in general.QB-3, Weinmarkt
20, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 10 88,
www.mammut.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Sun closed.
TRANSA (TRAVEL AND OUTDOOR)
Transa is the place for quality outdoor clothing and
equipment. The team of staﬀ are experienced specialists
and can advise you on their product range and what
would best ﬁt your requirements. It might burn a hole in
your wallet, but you can probably use what you buy here
for the next ten or more years. They have a large selection
of footwear and merino wool thermal clothing, plus
rucksacks and hiking, biking and climbing hardware.QA-4,
Pfistergasse 23, uKasernenplatz, www.transa.ch. Open
10:00 - 18.30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.
October 2014 - March 2015
Watches & Jewellery
Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus
Lucerne has a good handful of Christmas markets.
With lots of traditional handicrafts and one-oﬀ design
products, they’re an ideal place to look for a special
present or a literally unique souvenir. But you can also
just go for a glass of mulled wine and a sausage, to soak
up the Christmas atmosphere. The ﬁrst market starts at
the end of November, the last closes on Christmas eve.
Fifty wooden market stands on the lower level of the train
station oﬀer a colourful mix of gifts such as scented oils
or kitchen utensils and international food specialities. Not
the most charming of locations but ideal in wet weather
or if you would like to pick up a snack for your train
journey.QC-4, RailCity (Lucerne main train station),
November 21 - December 23, 2014. Open 10:00 21:00, Thu - Sat 10:00 - 22:00.
This is central Switzerland’s largest shopping centre.
It’s located in Emmenbrücke, 15 minutes bus ride from
Lucerne. Here you’ll ﬁnd more than 80 shops on 30’000m2
including the fashion stores PKZ, Schild and C&A, jeweller
Kurz and the department store Manor just to name a few.
QStauffacherstrasse 1, Emmenbrücke, uEmmen
Center, tel. +41 41 260 61 12, www.emmencenter.ch.
Open 09:00 - 18:30, Wed & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00
- 16:00, Sun closed.
(KORNSCHÜTTE / RATHAUS)
90 young Swiss designer labels present their creative
design products during this three-day festival in the
town hall. Switzerland has a solid reputation when it
comes to product design and here you can experience
and buy some of its latest creations.QB-3, Kornmarkt 3,
uSchwanenplatz, www.designschenken.ch. 5th 7th Dec, 2014.
The most traditional of the Lucerne Christmas markets
is located in the square next to the Franciscan church,
a ﬁve-minute walk along the river from the main
train station. The smell of gingerbread, spices and
glühwein (mulled wine), together with the bustling
atmosphere will get you in the Christmas spirit. Here
you’ll ﬁnd herbs, tea, traditional Christmas biscuits,
homemade candles, sheepskin hats and gloves and
much more. Also a popular meeting place for locals
after work to catch up with friends over a mulled wine
or two.QB-4, Franziskanerplatz, uPilatusplatz, www
.weihnachtsmarktluzern.com. December 4 - 21, 2014.
This art and crafts market located in the old town
is a great place to pick up unique handmade gifts.
Traders here are only allowed to sell goods they have
produced themselves. Items made of glass, textiles,
wood, ceramic and metal are on oﬀer including a good
selection of handmade jewellery.QB-3, Weinmarkt,
MSchwanenplatz, www.handwerksmarkt.ch. 6th,
8th, 13th, 14th, 20th, 21st Dec, 2014.
One option among many: Hess watches, made locally.
HARRY’S SOUVENIR SHOP
This shop on lively Pﬁstergasse has the full souvenir range Swiss pocket knives, jumpers and t-shirts with Switzerland
prints, postcards and trinkets, some watches as well as a
whole wall of Swiss and German cuckoo clocks.QA-4,
Pfistergasse 6, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. +41 41 240 88
SWISS CORNER FRESCO
Souvenirs, Souvenirs! Here they have hats, cups, caps - all
with a Swiss cross on them of course. As well as a whole
wall covered with wooden cuckoo clocks. And yes, they
do have pocket knives too.QC-2, Löwenstrasse 13,
uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 30 06.
Established in 1888 in Lucerne, Bucherer is a leading
jewellery and Swiss watch boutique. They oﬀer top
brands like Rolex, IWC, Longines and Rado as well as their
own brand Carl F. Bucherer. This huge store also stocks
Victorinox pocket knives and Swarovski crystals.QC-3,
Schwanenplatz 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 369 77
00, www.bucherer.com. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sun 09:00 19:00, Nov - March 09:00 - 18:30, Sun 15:00 - 18:30.
CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY
With more than 80 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweller
in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag
Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant, Tissot or their
very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion
jewels. Get a 10% discount with the voucher in this
guide!QB-3, Kramgasse 8, uFranziskanerplatz, tel.
+41 41 410 18 80, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.
These watches are manufactured in Luzern by Walter Hess
and his wife Judith. In 2014 they opened a workshop and
shop where they mount and sell the two diﬀerent models
they produce so far: the TWO.1 and the TWO.2. The appeal
of these mechanic watches with Swiss clock units lies in
their delicate, elegant and timeless design. Not cheap
but certainly a special souvenir from Lucerne.QD-2,
Stiftstrasse 4, uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41 322 44 88,
KURZ JEWELLERY & WATCHES
Wide selection of mainly Swiss watches like Omega, Zenith,
Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, Rado and many more, as well as a
large selection of jewellery e.g. by H. Stern and Chopard.
QB-3, Weggisgasse 25, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41
419 40 20, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open 09:00 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.
10 % DISCOUNT
Matrouvaille oﬀers modern design products and gifts, inspired
by traditional Swiss handicraft methods. Here you will ﬁnd
wallets, key chains and the like.QA-5, Kasimir-Pfyffer-Strasse
Open Fri 10:00 - 18:30, usually Tue - Thu 09:00 - 17:00.
Whether Swiss Army knives, cow bells, key rings, shirts,
postcards, cuckoo clocks or almost any other imagineable
souvenir - you ‘ll ﬁnd it at Schmocker’s shop. They also
stock Swiss handicraft like dolls, music boxes and ﬁnest
wood carvings and watches.QD-2, St.-Leodegar-Str. 2,
uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41 410 32 50, www.schmocker
-souvenirs.ch. Open daily (incl. Sundays) 10:00 - 12:00,
13:30 - 18:00. In winter Sun closed.
36 Lucerne In Your Pocket
Lucerne is one of the major marketplaces for
Swiss watches, with dozens of brands on oﬀer. Use our
watchﬁnder pages (overleaf ) to locate the one you’re
after or just browse through the more than two dozen
boutiques, most of them located around Schwanenplatz.
On the entire selection
of watches and jewelry.
Valid until April 30, 2015,
in all CHRIST shops.
In LUCERNE at Kramgasse 8.
Does not apply to special orders, services,
repairs or gift certiﬁcates.
Cannot be combined with any other offers.
October 2014 - March 2015
Juwelia, Denkmalstrasse 1 - 3
Kienzle, Kapellgasse 3
Kurz, Weggisgasse 25
Moser Uhren & Bijouterie AG,
Omega Boutique, Grendelstrasse 5
Panerai Boutique, Kapellplatz 9
Ruckli, Bahnhofplatz 3
Schmid-Linder Switzerland GmbH,
Sokolov, Weinmarkt 8
Swatch Store, Weggisgasse 19
Swiss Lion, Löwenplatz 11
Swiss Timecorner, Löwenstrasse 2
TAG Heuer Boutique, Grendelstrasse 8
Vacheron Constantin Boutique,
Zenith-Boutique, Grendelstrasse 8
a t erstras
Je s u it
ile r st
t ra s
Seehofs t r.
38 Lucerne In Your Pocket
f t str.
U n te
Egg de r
L e d d el
G erb r ga sse
Hertens tein s tr
Hermès, Schweizerhofquai 4
Weg gi sg a
Harry's Watch Center, Pfistergasse 10
City Watch, Pilatusstrasse 17A
Gübelin, Schweizerhofquai 1
CHRIST Uhren & Schmuck, Kramgasse 8
Embassy, Grendelstrasse 2
Casagrande, Grendel 6
P OW E R E D
BY S O L A R E N E R G Y
TAC T I L E T E C H N O L O G Y
A. Lange & Söhne
Baume & Mercier
Bell & Ross
Swiss Military Hanowa
Victorinox Swiss Army
Bucherer, Schwanenplatz 5
October 2014 - March 2015
Ice skating, fondue cruise or sledging - Lucerne can
be fun in winter too! See our suggestions below. In case
the city is covered by a thick layer of high-altitude fog
(unfortunately happens quite often), we recommend
you climb a nearby mountain to get some sun. Or even
better: ski it. There are many mountains and resorts so
close to Lucerne that it’s worth going to one just for the
day. These resorts usually open by the end of November or
mid-December, as soon as there is snow. Always check the
conditions before you leave.
IN THE CITY
Fondue cruise: sure it’s tasty, but don’t miss the scenery!
CHEESE FONDUE CRUISE
Each Friday evening from October 24 through Febuary
27, 2015 you can step aboard the cheese fondue cruise,
which serves ‘all you can eat’ fondue or raclette as you
sail around Lake Lucerne by night. The experience lasts
around 2.5 hours and you need to book in advance online
or by telephone. A very cheesy Swiss experience (no pun
intended!)QC-4, Bahnhofplatz, uLuzern Bahnhof, tel.
+41 41 367 67 67, www.lakelucerne.ch. Cruise departs
from Lucerne Bahnhofquai at 19:12, returning to the
same spot at 21:47 each Friday (Oct - Feb). 36Sfr for the
cruise, plus 32Sfr for ‘all you can eat’ fondue or raclette.
Children up to the age of 12, pay 2Sfr per year (e.g. an
11-year-old would pay 22Sfr).
FITNESSPARK ALLMEND/CITY SWIMMING POOL
The Fitnesspark Allmend is located in a newly built
leisure centre and oﬀers spa and gym facilities. Just
the place if you are looking to exercise, to relax or
indeed both on a wet or cold winter’s day. It has a
modern and well-maintained gym with a down to
earth atmosphere, featuring a good selection of cardio
machines and weights. The spa oﬀers both mixed and
women-only sauna facilities, an outdoor Kneipp garden
to boost circulation and a state of the art thermal salt
lounge. It is also possible to pay a supplement to
book a massage or use the solarium facilities. The city
swimming baths are located in the same building and
oﬀer 5 pools of diﬀering depths and sizes including a
25m pool for the more serious swimmers, a 5m high
diving board and a tube slide for the more adventurous
among us (www.hallenbadluzern.ch).QZihlmattweg
46, uZihlmattweg, tel. +41 41 360 66 91,
www.fitnesspark.ch/allmend. Open 06:30 - 22:00,
Sat & Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Admission: 37Sfr entrance
to spa and gym (no children under 16 allowed). 12Sfr
entrance to the swimming pool.
LIVE ON ICE OUTDOOR ICE SKATING WITH A VIEW
Nestled between the iconic KKL building next to the main
train station and Lake Lucerne, there will be a temporary
outdoor iceskating rink oﬀering entertainment for people
of all ages. Here you can pirouette whilst enjoying views
of the city, lake and snow capped pre-Alps. The lighting
concept is presented by light artist Gerry Hofstetter,
who is internationally renowned for his illuminations on
monuments, mountains, icebergs, glaciers and other natural
sights around the globe, raising awareness for climate
change. There will be an opening ceremony featuring a
performance on ice, which coincides with the switching
on of the city’s Christmas lights. On December 12 there will
be a beneﬁt performance by the European ﬁgure skating
champion Sarah Meier.QC-4, Europaplatz, uLuzern
Bahnhof, www.liveonice.ch. November 27, 2014 to
January 4, 2015. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Wed, Sat & Sun 14:00
- 22:00. Admission free. Rental ice skates 8Sfr for 90mins,
3Sfr for each additional hour (ID required as a deposit).
SNOW N’ RAIL
A good way to get to the snow is public transport. The
Swiss Federal Railways SBB have special combined
oﬀers for many of the listed resorts. It’s around 20%
cheaper if you book the train/bus ticket and the ski pass
together. Ask for the Snow’n’Rail tickets at the counters
at the train station - they will print the time table for
your journey as well.
40 Lucerne In Your Pocket
Escape from the cold to the spa area at Fitnesspark Allmend.
Sörenberg is a great ski resorts for families. In the area Dorf
two chairlifts, a gondola and eleven skilifts take you up to
dozens of kilometres of slopes. While many of the slopes
here are not very steep, more experienced skiers will ﬁnd
what they are looking for on the Brienzer Rothorn (2350
metres asl) where two additonal lifts are located. A steep
slope takes you back to the valley. Public transport gets you
to Sörenberg in just 70 minutes.QBergbahnen Sörenberg,
Sörenberg, tel. +41 41 488 21 21, www.soerenberg.ch.
Open Dec 13 until April 6, 2015. Day passes 50/40/25Sfr.
Sledging on Mount Rigi: now where are the brakes on this thing? PD
SLEDGING IN CENTRAL SWITZERLAND
The snow does not settle too often in Lucerne city,
but when it does local folk head up to the back of the
conservatorium (Map F-1) for city sledging. On milder
winter days you may need to seek out a higher altitude for
sledging possibilities. Both Mount Pilatus and Mount Rigi
(see p. 30) oﬀer sledging routes. You can go up by cable
car / train, rent sledges for around 10Sfr and down you
go. Pilatus also rents snow bikes, airboards and minibobs,
whereas Rigi has various runs and also oﬀers snowshoe
rental and night sledging for the more adventurous. Check
the websites for more information. Be sure to have some
good shoes and warm clothing, as it can get chilly on the
Just 90 minutes from Lucerne, the small village of Stoos
oﬀers seven lifts and stunning views over Lake Lucerne
from the top of the Fronalpstock. Stoos is only accessible by
cable railway or aerial cable car. From the town of Schwyz
take a bus to the Schlatti valley station and enjoy the short
ride up to the village, where you’ll ﬁnd several rental shops.
This small resort is great for families. If you don’t ski, take
a ride in a horse-drawn carriage (contact Suter Transporte,
tel. +41 79 455 66 24).QStoos, tel. +41 41 818 08 08,
www.stoos.ch. Open December until April 6, 2015. Day
pass (including feeder cable railway) 50/30Sfr.
ENGELBERG - TITLIS
Engelberg is the biggest resort in central Switzerland. Its
top attraction is Mount Titlis: a rotating gondola takes you
up to more than 3,000 metres above sea level. There you
get a spectacular view, a glacier and some steep slopes that
lead back down to the village of Engelberg, 2,000 metres
below. Besides Mount Titlis there are 82 kilometres of
slopes suitable for beginners as well as experienced skiers,
snow trekking paths and cross country ski runs. Several
shops have gear for rent. The train ride from Lucerne takes
only 43 minutes.QPoststrasse 3, Engelberg, tel. +41 41
639 50 50, www.titlis.ch. Day pass 62/43/25Sfr.
MEIRINGEN - HASLIBERG
The ski resort of Hasliberg is quite easy to reach: from
Lucerne, a train (to Brünig) and a bus take you there in 90
minutes. High above the Haslital 60 kilometres of slopes
for all levels, 14 lifts and a skicross park where you can
compete with your friends await you. With a junior ski park
and a special children’s learning area, this is a good choice
for families. You can also rent gear there. If you’re not into
skiing, there are hiking and sledging trails.QHasliberg, tel.
+41 33 550 50 50, www.meiringen-hasliberg.ch. Open
Dec 20 until April 6, 2015. Day passes 57/46/28Sfr.
Ah, if we all had such technique! Skiing at Meiringen-Hasliberg. PD
GOLDEN PASS - PANORAMIC TRAIN
The Golden Pass is a panoramic train line connecting
Lucerne with the city of Montreux, on Lake Geneva.
The route ﬁrst takes you from Lucerne over the Brünig
pass to Interlaken and then right through the heart of
the Bernese Alps via Zweisimmen and Gstaad to Lake
Geneva. In nice weather this trip is absolutely stunning,
taking you through valleys and past lakes and mountains
of extraordinary beauty. The trains use panorama wagons
with huge windows so you get unhindered views of
the wonderful landscapes going by, or alternatively
beautiful vintage trains. Check timetable for details.
Qtel. +41 21 989 81 90, www.goldenpassline.ch.
Trains leave Lucerne every second hour, the first one
at 07:05. Book your seats in advance on their website,
by phone or at the SBB counters at the station. Ticket:
73Sfr one way, reservation fee is additional.
October 2014 - March 2015
Lucerne has an exceptional concentration of Grand
Hotels, but there is accommodation for most other tastes
and budgets as well. Sometimes rates are lower for the
weekend, so if you’re ﬂexible check when you book.
Generally bathrooms are private and Wi-ﬁ is available in
the rooms, we specify where either is not the case. Rooms
and public areas are usually non-smoking, but some hotels
have smokers rooms and most have a smoking area.
In Switzerland hotels are categorized with stars from one to
ﬁve by two organizations, hotelleriesuisse and GastroSuisse.
The former also gives qualifying hotels the supplement
‘superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality.
The classiﬁcations are generally comparable. We list hotels
according to their classiﬁcation in the following categories:
Cream of the Crop *****, Upmarket ****, Mid-range ***
and Budget (0 to **). We also list several attractive places
around Lucerne in our Out of town category, from **
to *****. Some of these are in nearby towns, others in
unspoiled naturtal locations.
Grand hotel Schweizerhof on the elegant lake shore.
CREAM OF THE CROP
In a central location on busy Pilatusstrasse, the Renaissance
occupies a substantial historic town-house with an ornate
façade, behind which however you’ll ﬁnd the polished,
contemporary design of an international hotel. Rooms are
light, with fabrics in warm, earthy hues and classic modern
design accents. All rooms have ﬂat-screen TVs, tea and
coﬀee facilities and Wi-ﬁ. Staﬀ is friendly, keeps the rooms
very clean and mostly speaks English. In house you’ll ﬁnd a
lounge, a gym, the Mexican and steak restaurant Paciﬁco
and a smokers bar.QB-4, Pilatusstrasse 15, uBahnhof,
tel. +41 41 226 87 87, fax +41 41 226 87 90, renaissance
-lucerne.com. 86 rooms. Breakfast 30Sfr, Wi-fi free.
42 Lucerne In Your Pocket
The elegant Neo-Renaissance Schweizerhof with its
location on the lake promenade has been setting standards
in hospitality since 1845. Many rooms and all suites have
breathtaking views of the lake and the surrounding
mountains. The spacious, elegant rooms are kept in greys
and blues, with carpet ﬂoors and classic furnishings. The
Schweizerhof also oﬀers a wide range of spa options, the two
restaurants Galerie and Pavillon, the modern Schweizerhof
bar with live piano music and the great terrace.QC-3,
Schweizerhofquai, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 04
10, fax +41 41 410 29 71, [email protected],
www.schweizerhof-luzern.ch. 101 rooms. Breakfast
35Sfr, free Wi-fi. PHAFKDwW hhhhh
standard ﬂat-screen TV, telephone, minibar, safe etc. The inhouse restaurant bellini serves Ticinese, i.e. southern Swiss,
and North-Italian specialities, and in the summer season,
the restaurant and bar also set up under the trees of the
small park just around the corner. The hotel is close to
the railway station and also has covered parking spaces.
QC-5, Murbacherstrasse 4, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41
228 90 50, fax +41 41 228 90 58, [email protected],
www.continental.ch. 92 rooms. Breakfast incl., Wi-fi and
cable internet free. PHA6ULKW hhhh
ROMANTIK HOTEL WILDEN MANN
The Wilden Mann is a thoughtfully run hotel with a rich
history of five hundred years which you can feel at every
step. Though each room is different, all are warmly
furnished with carpets, rich fabrics, antique furniture
with classic upholstery and carved wood, intricate
parquet flooring and the occasional four-poster bed.
All rooms have a flat-screen TV, telephone, radio,
minibar, hairdryer and a safe.QB-4, Bahnhofstrasse
30, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 210 16 66, fax +41 41 210
16 26, [email protected], www.wilden-mann.ch.
48 rooms. Breakfast incl., Wi-fi 5Sfr/24h. Parking is on
public spaces and costs 25Sfr/day. A6LKW
ART DECO HOTEL MONTANA
Built in 1910 in Art Déco style, the Montana has been
carefully and comprehensively renovated in recent years,
bringing out the best of the original clean-lined, but
luxurious design. With its hillside location just above the
lakeside grand hotels, it has wonderful views across the
lake and to the Alps - and its own funicular which takes
you down to the lake shore. The spacious rooms are
kept in a modern style with Art Déco accents and have
parquet ﬂoors, ﬂat screen TVs, high-end hi-ﬁ systems and
tea and coﬀee facilities. All rooms facing the lake have a
balcony. The so-called spa suites have private saunas
and whirlpools. Also outstanding are the in-house Louis
bar and the restaurant Scala with 15 Gault Millau points.
QE-2, Adligenswilerstrasse 22, uCasino-Palace, tel. +41
41 419 00 00, fax +41 41 419 00 01, [email protected],
www.hotel-montana.ch. 64 rooms. Breakfast 25Sfr, Wi-fi
free. HA6UKW hhhh
The Ambassador occupies a modern building close to the
Lion monument. The bright, modern rooms have hardwood
ﬂoors, radio, safe and minibar and an unsurprising, cheerful
furnishing style. Though there is no in-house restaurant,
room service includes dishes from the nearby restaurant
Lapin. There is covered parking just next door and as a
hotel guest you get a reduction.QC-2, Zürichstrasse 3,
uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 418 81 00, fax +41 41 418
81 90, [email protected]mbassador.ch, www.ambassador.ch. 39
rooms. Buffet breakfast, Wi-fi and cable internet incl.
Reading lamps in Italian design and professionally applied
colour schemes combined with carpets make for attractive
rooms at the Continental-Park. Rooms are comprehensively
equipped e.g. with slippers and an umbrella, apart from the
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
H Conference facilities
R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre
L Parking on site
u Nearest (trolley)bus station
W Wi-ﬁ connection
6 Animal friendly
A-1 Map coordinates
C Swimming pool
Step inside for Art Deco: hotel Montana.
GRAND HOTEL EUROPE
At the end of the lake promenade, the Europe is one of
the handful of grand hotels built in Lucerne at the turn
of the 20th century. The comfortable rooms are modern,
combining a recent, refined design in matching colour
tones with occasional antique pieces. Some rooms have
delightful patterned parquet floors, others are carpeted.
The in-house restaurant Bellevue offers dining in a rich,
Belle-Epoque ambiance with chandeliers and stucco
ornaments. For a drink sit down in the bar or in nice
weather in the terrace and gardens. Facilities for tennis
and golf nearby.QF-2, Haldenstrasse 59, uEurope,
tel. +41 41 370 00 11, fax +41 41 370 10 31, [email protected]
europe-luzern.ch, www.europe-luzern.ch. 169 rooms.
Breakfast and cable internet incl., Wi-fi 5Sfr/24h. Air
conditioning not in all rooms. PHAULKW
HOTEL MONOPOL LUZERN
If you’re arriving by train you’ll be particularly pleased
about the central location of the Monopol, literally just
across from the train station. Built in 1899, the hotel has
a Parisian-inspired façade with ornate Rococo elements.
The generously-sized rooms with carpeted ﬂoors, striped
wallpaper insets and dark wood furniture are kept in
a classic design. They are all equipped with ﬂat-screen
satellite TV and radio, telephone, minibar, safe and hairdryer.
The in-house lounge and bar Suite on the 7th ﬂoor is a nice
place for a drink with views of the lake and mountains.QC4, Pilatusstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 226 43 43,
fax +41 41 226 43 44, [email protected], www.
monopolluzern.ch. 73 rooms. Breakfast incl, Wi-fi free.
The Bellevue is on the green eastern edge of Lucerne
a few 100m from the lake shore, but still only 12
minutes by bus from the centre. The clean, simple
rooms have carpeted floors, large windows and many
have a balcony with views of the mountains, though
not the lake. They come with a flat-screen TV, radio,
telephone and minibar. The Bellevue does not have
a restaurant or bar, but its sister hotel Hermitage
across the road offers upmarket gastronomy. Other
facilities like a tennis court or sauna are available
there. Family rooms for up to 6 people available.
QSeeburgstrasse 79, uHermitage, tel. +41 41 371
27 27, fax +41 41 371 27 28, [email protected],
www.bellevue-luzern.ch. 19 rooms. Breakfast and
Wi-fi incl. TA6FLDW hhh
DE LA PAIX
The De la Paix boasts a central location just on the edge
of the old town, in a handsome early 20th-century town
house and a reputation for friendly service. The bright,
modern rooms have hardwood ﬂoors, TV, radio, safe and
minibar. The furnishing is straightforward, with warm
colours and wood touches. The rustic-styled in-house
restaurant Lapin serves Swiss-cum-international cuisine.
QC-2, Museggstrasse 2, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41 418
80 00, fax +41 41 418 81 90, [email protected],
www.de-la-paix.ch. 39 rooms. Breakfast and Wi-fi incl.
October 2014 - March 2015
GARNI HOTEL DREI KÖNIGE
The Drei Könige is in a quiet location about ﬁve minutes’
walk from the old town. It occupies an Art Nouveau 7-story
town house, but inside the design is more recent. The plain,
clean rooms have furnishings with dark wood ﬁnishes and
carpeted or parquet ﬂoors. They all have a ﬂat-screen TV, a
radio, a telephone and a hairdryer, many have nice views
and a few even have a balcony. An unusual asset is the
huge model railway in the attic which rekindles childhood
dreams! It is possible to arrange a visit, but access is not
guaranteed. Just ask the friendly receptionists.QA-4,
Bruchstrassse 35, uKlosterstrasse, tel. +41 41 248
04 80, fax +41 41 248 04 90, [email protected],
www.drei-koenige.ch. 60 rooms. Buffet breakfast and
Wi-fi incl. AULW hhh
HOTEL ALPINA LUZERN
The Alpina with its very central and yet quiet location just
next to the railway station is a well-run, friendly tourist hotel.
The clean rooms are furnished in a straightforward style, with
either hardwood ﬂoors or carpets. All rooms have private
bathrooms, hairdryers, telephones and ﬂat-screen satellite TV
and radio. QC-4, Frankenstrasse 6, uBahnhof, tel. + 41 41
210 00 77, fax + 41 41 210 89 44, [email protected],
www.alpina-luzern.ch. 36 rooms. Breakfast incl., Wi-fi free,
no cable internet. HA6LKW hhh
Hofkirche church, just oﬀ the lake promenade.
Emanuel Ammon/Luzern Tourismus
IBIS STYLES LUZERN CITY
Just next to the Bourbaki Panorama, this hotel is a few
minutes on foot from the old town and the lake. The
rooms have an attractive, pop-inspired design with
accents in bright colours and dark carpeted or laminate
ﬂoors. They are all equipped with a ﬂat-screen TV, a radio,
a telephone and a hairdryer. There is free tea and coﬀee
in the lobby 11:00 - 22:00, as well as an internet terminal.
QC-2, Friedenstrasse 8, uLöwenplatz, tel. +41 41
418 48 48, fax +41 41 418 48 18, [email protected],
www.ibisstyles.com. 115 rooms. Breakfast and Wi-fi
incl., pets 20Sfr/day. PTHA6KW hhh
The Luzernerhof boasts a central location, near the lake
and the Lion Monument, but it does have a busy road on
one side. The rooms with laminate ﬂoors, colourful touches
44 Lucerne In Your Pocket
on the walls and straightforward furnishing all have a
TV, a radio, a telephone and a hairdryer. Bathrooms have
either a shower or bath. There is a French brasserie-style
restaurant on the ground ﬂoor.QC-2, Alpenstrasse 3,
uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41 418 47 47, fax +41 41 418 47
49, [email protected], www.luzernerhof.ch. 76 rooms.
Breakfast incl., Wi-fi 5Sfr/24h, internet terminal 5Sfr/30
min. PALW hhh
The privately-run Falken has a extremely central location in
the old town, just around the corner from Schwanenplatz.
Perfect for watch shopping! The rooms are small, but welllit, their style is simple and functional. All have a TV, hairdryer
and safe, some have carpets, others laminate ﬂoors.
Breakfast is at a bakery café nearby.QB-3, Falkengasse 6,
uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 37 37, fax +41 41 410
57 38, [email protected], www.hotel-falken.ch. 15
rooms. Breakfast 12.50, Wi-fi free. A6W
HOTEL GARNI SPATZ
Just 5 minutes by bus from the centre, the Spatz is a friendly,
small alternative to town-centre accommodation. The
light, plain rooms have large windows, well-maintained
bathrooms and dark carpeted ﬂoors. Some have a balcony,
some a TV. Unfortunately, the road can be a bit noisy.
The pleasant in-house restaurant has outside seating.
QObergrundstrasse 103, uEichhof, tel. +41 41 310
63 84, fax +41 41 310 10 84, [email protected],
IBIS LUZERN KRIENS
This branch of the well-known budget hotel chain oﬀers the
high standards of cleanliness and functionality one has come
to expect. The optional buﬀet breakfast and all-day snacks
are served in the generous lobby area which has a colourful,
pop-arty design. This Ibis is close to a motorway exit but
not directly next to the motorway. Located in Lucerne’s
suburb Kriens, it is about 15 minutes by bus from the centre.
QIndustriestrasse 13, Kriens, uOberkuonimatt, tel. +41
41 349 49 49, fax +41 41 349 49 00, [email protected],
www.ibis.com. 69 rooms. Breakfast 15Sfr., parking 7Sfr/
night, pet 20Sfr, Wi-fi and cable internet incl. Doubles can
be booked as singles. A6LW hh
This was Lucerne’s jail from 1862 to 1998 and has since
been transformed into a hotel. Most rooms are former cells,
but bathrooms with shower and toilet have been added.
Four cells called the ‘unplugged’ rooms remain in their
original state for a real jail-like experience. There are also
four suites which occupy other rooms, such as the original
prison library. Comfort is basic but quite decent.QB-3,
Löwengraben 18, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 78
30, fax +41 41 410 78 32, [email protected] 56 rooms.
Breakfast 15Sfr, Wi-fi in the lobby free, no internet in
Sonnenberg means ’sun mountain’, and that describes
this hotel and its bucolic location well. Literally at the
edge of a forest on a hill above Kriens, the Sonnenberg
oﬀers panoramic views of the lake and mountains. Many
of the inviting rooms were refurbished recently, they have
parquet ﬂoors, clean-lined furniture, and a coherent colour
scheme. They are equipped with a ﬂat-screen TV, a capsule
coﬀeemachine and a desk. The very aﬀordable single rooms
have shared bathrooms. There is free parking, and a public
transport connection which gets you to Lucerne in just
under 30 min.QZumhofstrasse, Kriens, tel. +41 41 320
66 44, fax +41 41 320 66 14, [email protected],
www.hotelsonnenberg.ch. 14 rooms. Breakfast 15Sfr.,
Wi-fi and cable internet free. THA6LKW
Though a simple hotel, the Tourist has a wonderfully central
location, on the edge of the old town, right by the River
Reuss. The elementary but attractive rooms have ﬂatscreen TVs, hairdryers and some even have balconies facing
the river, though there is a (quiet!) road inbetween. Some
rooms are with shared bathrooms.QA-3, St. Karliquai 12,
uBrüggligasse, tel. +41 41 410 24 74, fax +41 41 410
84 14, [email protected], www.touristhotel.ch. 25
rooms. Breakfast buffet and Wi-fi incl. AUW
OUT OF TOWN
HOTEL UND BILDUNGSZENTRUM MATT
Set in the gentle, green hills west of Lucerne, the Matt is a hotel
as well as a compact seminar and conference centre. The welllit rooms in this modern structure all have balconies, parquet
ﬂoors, and are simply but tastefully decorated. Massages and
yoga sessions can be booked, and there are many hiking
options right on the doorstep. A bus and train connection gets
you to the centre of Lucerne in half an hour.QMattstrasse 19,
Schwarzenberg bei Luzern, tel. +41 41 499 70 99, fax +41
41 499 70 90, [email protected], www.bzmatt.ch. 49 rooms.
Breakfast and Wi-fi in public areas incl., no Wi-fi or cable
internet in rooms. THA6ULKW
Built in 1890, this hotel has a rich Belle-Epoque interior which
was recently restored to its original beauty. Located at over
2100 metres a.s.l. on Mount Pilatus, you might be forgiven
for missing the architecture in favour of the captivating
views deep into the Alps. The rooms have been refurbished
in a contemporary, low-key style, with Alpine inspired
wood and colour accents and design furniture. The hotel
can only be reached by cable car or the cogwheel railway.
Travel time to Lucerne is 1h15min.QPilatus, tel. +41 41
329 12 12, fax +41 41 329 12 13, [email protected],
www.pilatus.ch. 30 rooms. hhh
This hotel and conference centre is in quiet Nottwil, a village
on the shores of Lake Sempach, approx. 20km north-west
of Lucerne. The lake oﬀers attractive walks - or wind-surﬁng.
Rooms are in a modern, attractive design with hardwood
ﬂoors and small balconies. All rooms are equipped with a
TV, telephone, minibar and a hairdryer. Apart from a selfservice restaurant, there is a well-appointed full service
restaurant and a bar. With the free hotel shuttle and the train
you can reach Lucerne’s centre in 25 min.QKantonsstrasse
46, Nottwil, tel. +41 41 939 23 23, fax +41 41 939 23 24,
149 rooms. Breakfast incl., free Wi-fi and cable internet.
The Thorenberg is a small hotel on the green edge of the
Lucerne suburb of Littau, 8km from the centre of Lucerne. The
bright rooms with large windows have a modern, pleasant
design and come with ﬂat-screen TV, radio and hairdryer. The
in-house restaurant cooks to a high standard. There are train (6
min) and bus connections to the centre.QThorenbergstrasse
5, Luzern-Littau, uLittau station (train and bus), tel. +41
41 250 52 00, fax +41 41 250 52 73, [email protected],
www.thorenberg.ch. Wi-fi incl. KW hhh
If you want to escape into nature for a luxurious break, this
small boutique ﬁve-star superior hotel is located on Mount
Bürgenstock, 20 minutes drive from Lucerne. After major
renovations the hotel, built in 1905, reopened its doors in
its current form in 2011. The restaurant was awarded 14
Gault Millau points and oﬀers Arabian and local specialities.
E-bikes and golf carts are available free of charge for guests
to explore the surroundings and the hotel has a private
cinema for lazy days. The heated outdoor inﬁnity pool
oﬀers incredible views over both Lake Lucerne and the
Swiss Alps.QHonegg, Ennetbürgen, tel. +41 41 618
32 00, fax + 41 41 618 32 01, [email protected],
www.villa-honegg.ch. 18 rooms. Breakfast,Wi-fi and cable
internet incl. PTHA6UFLBKDCW
LUZERN YOUTH HOSTEL
This pleasant youth hostel is in a residential area on the
edge of Lucerne, but a regular bus service gets you to
the centre of town in just 12 minutes. The hostel has
a lounge area, a reading room, a children’s corner, a
billiards table and table tennis outside. Rooms are
in good condition, have parquet ﬂooring and many
look out onto the garden. Apart from the good buﬀet
breakfast, you can have lunch and evening meals in
the cantine.QSedelstrasse 12, uJugendherberge,
tel. +41 41 420 88 00, fax +41 41 420 56 16, [email protected]
youthhostel.ch, www.youthhostel.ch/luzern. 45
rooms. Breakfast and Wi-fi incl. Most rooms have
shared bathrooms. Use of an internet terminal
4.5Sfr/h. Hostelling International membership
required: day’s membership 6Sfr, 12Sfr for families,
yearly card 33Sfr. THAULK
October 2014 - March 2015
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Flu hma ttw
e s e m il in rin
Mü hlem a ttstrasse ramb
R o s enb
ede n ta
S5 Giswil S55 Sachseln
er eg eg ns t
n n c h c h t w z w K r i em a t
ha kir una por uer
Klösterli Bachstr. Kirchbühl
S4 Wolfenschiessen S44 Stans
t r. s t r. a t t
St. Niklausen LU
(bus) stop in at least
zone number for
zone number for
Public transport lines and zone map
for the Greater Lucerne Area
se hö n
er urg gge
Fr hm üti
ch uc chr rli
H öst he
st eim ost
id s at ag liä oo
W Po Bl S Ch M
Root D4, Oberfeld
K a G ä t K o n K l i n Schlösslihalde
w pu rtn oriu se ik
e g z i e r m r v S t Brüelstr.
a- . A
n n 14
ld eig asin ce
Bodenhofterrasse h o
Reussbrücke Root D4
St. Karli Kantonsspital
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Em ers nh
Gabeldingen Schulhaus Bergstr.
ld str sch ald istr str str
Dattenbergliw ho gü chw erg nge ste
ge tein ter
Linde- Hofmatt- Schachen- Alpen- Kupfer- GrossPulvermühle Center
Pilatus Bellpark strasse
strasse hammer hofstr.
p l Krauerstr.
se Alp ing onn
Ref. Kirche Ruopigenhöhe
Menziken /Rickenbach LU
Gültig ab 15.12.2013 (Stand 15.10.2013) Änderungen vorbehalten
D1, D2, E2
D2, E2, F1, F2
D5, E5, E6, F6
Anna-Neumann-Gasse D6, E6
A4, B4, C4
B2, C1, C2
A2, B1, B2
A2, B2, C2
A3/A5, B5, B6
D5, D6, E6
A2, A3, B2
C2, D2, E1, E2, F1
B4, B5, C4
A1, A2, B1
C5, D4, D5
C5, C6, D5
Haldenstrasse D2, D3, E2, F2
A4, A5, B5
Hertensteinstrasse B3, C2, C3
C1, C2, D1
Hirschmattstrasse B4, B5, C5
E1, E2, F1
B3, B4, C3
C1, D1, D2
Kasimir-Pfyﬀer-Strasse A4, A5
Landenbergstrasse D5, E5, E6, F6
Luzerner Originale-Gässli A3
B5, B6, C6
Murbacherstrasse B5, C4, C5
Museggstrasse A3, B2, B3, C2
D3, E2, E3
Obergrundstrasse A4/A6, B4/B6
Passage zum Stein
A5, B4, B5, C4
E2, F1, F2
A5, A6, B6
Schweizerhausstrasse E1, E2
C2, C3, D2, D3
Sonnbühlstrasse D1, D2, E1, E2
C6, D6, E6
Unter der Egg
D4, D5, E5
D5, D6, E5
Winkelriedstrasse B4, B5, C5, C6
October 2014 - March 2015
Alpineum Kaffeehaus Bar
Art Deco Hotel Montana
Café de Ville
Casagrande Gift Shop
Cheese Fondue Cruise
CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 37
Churrascaria Do Sul
Das schwarze Schaf / Das
De La Paix
Engelberg - Titlis
Felsenegg Garten Restaurant 19
Fine & More
Forum Schweizer Geschichte
Frigay Night (at the Loft Club)
Garni Hotel Drei Könige
Golden Pass - Panoramic Train
Grand Casino Luzern
Grand Hotel Europe
Guided Titlis tour
Harry's Souvenir Shop
Hotel ALPINA Luzern
Hotel Garni Spatz
Hotel MONOPOL Luzern
50 Lucerne In Your Pocket
The Lion Monument is a must-see no matter the season.
Hotel und Bildungszentrum
Ibis Luzern Kriens
Ibis Styles Luzern City
Kurz Jewellery & Watches
Lake Lucerne cruises
Louis Bar (Art Deco Hotel
Lozärner Weihnachtsmärt 36
Lucerne museum card
Lucerne Tourism city tours 29
Luzerner Handwerksmarkt 36
Luzern Youth Hostel
Outdoor Ice Skating with a View
PinkPanorama Film Festival 24
Pumpels Baby & Mama
Restaurant zum Schlüssel
Romantik Hotel Wilden Mann43
Schauraum Nina Staehli
Seminarhotel Sempachersee 45
Sledging in Central Switzerland
St.Magdalena Bar and
Suite (Hotel Monopol)
Swiss Corner Fresco
Young Designers Market
Decoding the menu
Live music venues
Luzern or Lucerne?
Meet the hotelier